In Europe we are two months into the great lockdown of 2020 and are finally seeing some promising culmination of current circumstances. However, much more heartwarming is the storm of new timepieces we are seeing launch at this second – if just digitally.
Let’s dig into four new presentations by independent watchmakers that I anticipate finding in the metal as soon as possible.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance twentieth Anniversary
When François-Paul Joune first presented his Résonance wristwatch in 2000, it was like a bat out of hell had invigorated the watch world! The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance became an instant classic.
It’s hard to accept that this timepiece is already 20 years old, however here we are. And to pay tribute to this achievement anniversary, the Geneva-based French watchmaker presents a 20th anniversary edition.
You can learn all that you should think about the phenomenon of resonance in Understanding Resonance, Featuring The F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance, Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance, And Haldimann H2 Flying Resonance .
F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance is outfitted with two balances alternately filling in as exciter and resonator. Moving, they go into harmony thanks to resonance and start to beat naturally in opposition. Setting and adjusting these balances is a very delicate task for the watchmaker.
The new Chronomètre à Résonance features one single spring barrel spring providing power to the two developments. A differential – seen at the focal point of the dial – transmits the barrel’s energy to the two secondary gear trains, each of which is equipped with its own one-second remontoir d’égalité for constant force.
All this is housed in an overhauled case with a crown currently placed at 2 o’clock, making winding and setting easier. Turning it clockwise breezes and sets the left dial; turning it counterclockwise breezes and fixes the dial. Pulling out the crown at 4 o’clock simultaneously resets both second hands, guaranteeing time-setting to the second befitting of a chronometer.
Turning the watch over, the two regulators become obvious at the lower part of the beautifully finished 18-karat pink gold development. This without a doubt has to be perhaps the most energizing development sees in the world.
This new model is available in platinum or in Journe’s unusual 18-karat 6N red gold and in a decision of 40 or 42 mm. The dial is proposed in 18-karat white or 6N red gold with the subdials in brightened silver guilloche.
There have been several adaptations of the Chronomètre à Résonance throughout the last 20 years: the original 20 pieces launched utilizing a subscription framework (2000); the first assortment arrangement (2001); a ruthenium arrangement (2001-2002); that ruthenium variation with its development in 18-karat pink gold (2005); a “digital” 24-hour Résonance (2010); an analog 24-hour Résonance (2019); and now and the anniversary Chronomètre à Résonance (2020).
For more information, please visit www.fpjourne.com/en/assortment/classique-assortment/chronometre-resonance .
Quick Facts F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance twentieth Anniversary
Case: 40 or 42 x 11 mm, platinum or 18-karat 6N red gold
Development: manual-wind Caliber 1520 with 18-karat pink gold plates and scaffolds, 2 independent gear trains including regulators, free-sprung balances with 4 inertia loads each, 2 one-second remontoirs d’égalité for constant force, one differential gear, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, 42-hour power hold
Functions: 12 hours, minutes, hacking seconds; 24 hours, minutes, hacking seconds, power save indication
Price: CHF 105,000 (platinum); CHF 101,400 (6N red gold), all prices without tax
MB&F HM10 Bulldog
Inspired by – you got it – a bulldog, MB&F’s 10th Machine is anything however exhausting. The HM10 Bulldog features an adjusted, elongated case that looks compact (like a bulldog’s middle), a period display forming its eyes, and heavy legs formed by the drags, embracing you (the proprietor) fiercely and loyally.
Forget the perspective on that crazy front for a moment and do what most WIS first do: turn the watch over – because on the back you’ll find significantly crazier components that will undoubtedly make your day. For one, the engraving “forget the canine beware the proprietor,” which really says it all.
Anyone wearing this timepiece is somebody you need to keep a genuine eye on. The individual is probably going to be feisty.
But what is bound to attract your eye are the fiercely canine jaws with teeth that open and shut according to the amount of pressure in the mainspring (an effect suggestive of Fiona Krüger’s Vanitas clock ). If you can clearly see these menacing teeth, the development is fully twisted with 45 hours’ worth of fight in it.
Those jaws are also noticeable from the front side taking a gander at the watch head on: take a gander at the time display cones (which you may recall from the HM3 ) within the high sapphire crystal arch and then look just underneath the case from there. It’s a pretty cool effect.
I also love the flying balance wheel, which measures a full 14 mm in diameter – you will not miss it as it stands in for the canine’s brain. This balance is presented in a more lighthearted way in the Bulldog than in the Legacy Machines , where it made its debut.
Just take a gander at the HM10 Bulldog from the side and mention to me what you see. You won’t ever have the option to unsee it – nor will you necessarily want to. Be that as it may, beware of this present beast’s size: you’ll need a beefy wrist to take it for a walk.
For more information, please visit www.mbandf.com/en/machines/horological-machines/hm10 .
Quick Facts MB&F HM10 Bulldog
Case: 54 x 45 x 24 mm, titanium or red gold with titanium
Development: manual twisting in-house caliber with flying balance wheel, 2.5 Hz/18,000 vph, 45-hour power save
Functions: hours, minutes; power save indication (bulldog jaws)
Price: CHF 98,000/$105,000/€92,000 (titanium); CHF 112,000/$120,000/€105,000 (red gold/titanium); all prices without tax
Urwerk UR-100 Yellow Gold C-3PO
In the fall of 2019, the Urwerk UR-100 arrived on the scene, a brand-new interpretation of Urwerk’s satellite hour and moment displays. Except that this far-out watch also displays something different completely: the distance our planet travels through space and the distance traveled on the equator in a 20-minute time frame.
Aside from the space-age additional functionality, the UR-100 also exemplifies something different: a touch of nostalgia for the early work of Urwerk as displayed in the case design.
“We have adopted a portion of the complex features of our first developments, and then deconstructed them,” explains fellow benefactor and architect Martin Frei. “For example, the steel arch of our early models is presently in transparent sapphire crystal. The hard blueprints of the titanium case feature its perfection. Because I’m always at chances with the dictates of evenness, I have utilized different proportions to catch the eye,” he concludes.
In early 2020, the UR-100 was offered in a restricted release of 25 with a gunmetal finish .
Now the UR-100 arrives in a gold release that Urwerk fittingly has given the nickname C-3PO . It launched on May 4, 2020 – May the Fourth, in any case referred to in pop culture as “Star Wars Day.” The droid’s gold-hued armor is similar to the tone of pale, satin-finished 2N yellow gold of this UR-100’s case.
“Science fiction has been an inexhaustible wellspring of inspiration since the creation of Urwerk,” Frei proceeds. “I have been a science fiction nerd since childhood.”
The first 2N gold piece from this release was auctioned by Urwerk to raise funds to fight the COVID-19 pandemic, with the triumphant bidder able to pick the specific charity or establishment for the funds. The watch went to an individual from Liverpool for a fantastically charitable price of CHF 96,500. The new proprietor picked the Liverpool School of Tropical Medicine (LSTM) as the beneficiary, saying, “As the first establishment on the planet dedicated to research and teaching in tropical medication, LSTM plays a critical job in fight against COVID-19. It is also an image of the city’s past where Liverpool was a prominent port city which carried on a broad trade with overseas regions.”
For more information on the remaining 24 pieces of the release, please visit www.urwerk.com/assortments/ur-satellite/ur-100 .
Quick Facts UR-100 Yellow Gold (C-3PO)
Case: 41 x 49.7 x 14 mm, 2N yellow gold
Development: automatic Caliber UR 12.01, 4 Hz/28,800 vph, 48-hour power hold
Functions: satellite hours and minutes, rotational distance of the earth at the equator quickly; orbital distance of the earth shortly
Limitation: 25 pieces
Greubel Forsey QP à Équation
The Greubel Forsey QP à Équation was launched in 2015 and proceeded to win the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève Calendar category in 2017 (when the production actually complied with the GPHG’s commercialization rules). Presently for 2020 Greubel Forsey presents its mind blowing take on the perpetual calendar in another red gold case with chocolate-earthy colored dial.
The QP à Équation features Greubel Forsey’s seventh development, the Computeur Mécanique (mechanical computer), a miniature perpetual calendar and equation of time calculator, which is a complete departure from the traditional perpetual calendar mechanism.
While it displays traditional perpetual calendar indications, the patent-pending Quantième Perpétuel à Équation does it in a totally different and substantially more logical and easy to understand way, using an actual mechanical calculating engine.
Greubel Forsey’s mechanical computer is an arrangement of 25 components interacting with the gear train to control six different displays; it is responsible for eight indications – four on the front and four on the rear of the movement.
On the front we have the perpetual calendar’s date, day, and month in a beautiful and easy-to-read package. Flanking this group of displays on the left at 6 o’clock is the leap year indication, which interfaces straight through to the rear of the development where the indication also drives the digital year display.
Also on the rear is the equation of time with the season, solstice, and equinox displays. The equation of time has its own sapphire crystal plate, while the season, solstice, and equinox are on a second sapphire crystal circle straightforwardly beneath that. Since the seasons, solstices, and equinoxes are all attached to each other based on the calendar, they can be grouped into a solitary display.
The equation of time circle, and its manta ray-esque indication, move at a marginally different rate than the calendar year and pass over a graduated scale starting at nothing and dropping to 16. These are the minutes of apparent solar time (where the sun actually is in the sky), ahead or behind mean solar time, which is the time that your watch keeps (after adjustment for time zones).
And all of these indications are set and twisted by one single crown! Backward or forward. Thanks to a pushbutton selector, the crown can be changed from time setting to perpetual calendar setting (with a corresponding indicator on the dial), making for easy adjustments.
The dial even has a 24-hour indicator somewhere in the range of 7 and 8 o’clock, with a featured red area between the hours of the date change in which period you ought to avoid adjusting the mechanism. However, regardless of whether you make a mistake don’t stress, there is a safety mechanism with the goal that you cannot make an adjustment when there’s a possibility of damaging the movement.
Oh, and it wouldn’t be a Greubel Forsey without a slanted tourbillon, in this case a 25-degree slanted 24-second tourbillon. What a package!
For more information please visit www.greubelforsey.com/en/assortment/qp-a-equation .
Quick Facts Greubel Forsey Quantième Perpétuel à Équation
Case: 43.5 x 16 mm, 5N red gold
Development: manually twisted caliber based upon Greubel Forsey’s seventh creation with 24-second tourbillon at a 25-degree slant, variable inertia balance, 72-hour power save, 21,600 vph/3 Hz frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; 24-hour indicator, power save; perpetual calendar with day, date, month, digital year, leap year; equation of time, season, solstice, equinox
Price: CHF 670,000/$680,000 (barring tax)
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