There is always such a conspicuous difference among December and January. Around the holidays, we love to overindulge in nearly each and every manner, shape and structure, yet in January we as a whole appear to suffer from a gigantic aftereffect from it all.
We at that point feel a need to return to basics. And regarding watches, a horological detox implies returning to the simplest of them.
I have always felt that the basics are represented by a watch with two hands, three and no more; no different complications; preferably housed in a stainless steel case; and fitted with a tie. It isn’t overly thick or large, and the dial is functional, which means clearly legible.
Some may say that such watches are a dying breed, but there are still quite a couple of brands with them in their collections. They are not consideration grabbers, but rather therefore maybe the perfect choice to begin the new year with.
Nomos Glashütte Tangente Ref. 101
With its timeless appeal and diameter of 35 mm, the original Nomos Tangente of 1991 – which is still in the brand’s collection – is perfect for both sexes.
With men, this occasionally can be an issue as larger watches have been the trend for such a long time that a significant number of them have failed to remember how good a smaller, exceptionally proportionate watch looks.
With its intensely straightforward design, the Tangente is the ideal of a horological detox, but it is filled with little details that are as nurturing to the soul as a good bowl of chicken soup. Take, for example, the state of the numeral “2” or the slender, tempered steel hands, which gloat a beautiful cornflower shade of blue.
Nomos even stayed old school on the back as there is no sapphire crystal, just as it was before all else, keeping the manual-wind Alpha caliber hidden from sight.
I have mixed feelings about this: it makes the watch a purer experience, yet simultaneously it also keeps the pleasure of admiring the blued screws and different decorations a privilege of the watchmaker who services it. Luckily for people like me, one may order this watch with the sapphire crystal placed in the case back on the off chance that one so wishes.
The supple black lash is made of genuine Shell Cordovan made by the world-famous Horween tannery from Chicago. It is a lovely, introverted choice for this watch, yet also one that inhales quality as these lashes last a long, long time.
So even from a financial perspective, it is a sensible venture regardless of whether the cash that Nomos Glashütte is asking is a modest €1,450. Given its build quality and manufacture movement, in excess of a reasonable price for such a timeless watch – demonstrated by the fact that it is still here after 28 years.
For more data, please visit www.nomos-glashuette.com/en/tangente/tangente-101 .
Quick Facts Nomos Tangente Ref. 101
Case: 35 x 6.2 mm, stainless steel, solid case back
Movement: manually wound manufacture Caliber Alpha, power hold 43 hours, Glashütte three-quarter plate, 3 Hz/21,600 vph
Functions: hours, minutes, hacking seconds
Hermès Slim d’Hermès
One of the things that always intrigues me about Hermès is the means by which nearly all its products in general, and its watches in particular, are so understated. An extraordinary example of this is the Slim d’Hermès.
With this watch, Hermès also appears to focus on a younger age, appealing to it with a specially created numeral text style in a stenciled style. It gives the watch a surprisingly modern look, despite its traditional dial layout with subsidiary seconds and a black tie in alligator skin.
In fact, I am almost certain that should you settle on a post-retail tie made of a pants fabric, it would look equally as good on the Slim d’Hermès.
The movement is an automatic that gets its force from a micro rotor. While it is made by Vaucher, it can well be considered a manufacture movement as Hermès is part proprietor of Vaucher, and this movement is exclusive to the Parisian style giant.
Hermès decided for an intriguing style of movement decoration, settling on rehashing its logo on the bridges, which have an exceptionally angular layout. It isn’t what you would expect from a classic brand like Hermès, but of course Hermès has never been stuck in the past with its designs.
Further reading: Introducing Slim d’Hermès: The Elegant New Backbone Of The Hermès Collection
For more data please visit www.hermes.com/nl/en/product/slim-d-hermes-watch-39.5mm.
Quick Facts Hermès Slim d’Hermès
Case: 39.5 x 8.14 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber H1950 with micro rotor, ultra-flat at 2.6 mm in tallness; micro rotor; 3 Hz/21,600 vph
Functions: hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds
Chopard L.U.C. XP
Chopard is also a brand that realizes how to boil its watches down to their essence. With the L.U.C. XP it adopts an almost casual strategy with a stainless steel case, brushed dial, and beautiful pink gold-plated hands and Arabic numerals.
With a diameter of 40 mm the L.U.C. XP is larger than the Nomos Glashütte Tangente, yet still relatively modest in relation to most different watches. As the watch is also slender, on account of an automatic movement that is only 3.3 mm in thickness, its wearing comfort is very high.
What I like about this watch is that Chopard created something that will appeal to a younger demographic without making it a games watch. The Chopard L.U.C. XP is one of those watches that looks good as well as has a design that, despite being fundamentally purist, keeps up its remaining power.
Chopard opted for a sapphire crystal case back through which we can admire the automatic movement wound by micro rotor. While the completing is nice, do not expect blued screws or anything like that. Chopard opted instead for an exceptionally restrained decoration style, almost on the border of industrial, which only adds to the appeal of this watch.
For more data, please visit www.chopard.com/intl/watches/l-u-c/l-u-c-xp .
Quick Facts Chopard L.U.C. XP
Case: 40 x 7.2 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic manufacture Caliber L.U.C. 96.53-L with micro rotor, twin serially working origin barrels, power hold 58 hours, 4 Hz/28,800 vph
Functions: hours, minutes
Zenith Elite 6150
Especially since the commemoration in 2019, many think immediately about the El Primero with regards to Zenith. But the brand is so much more.
Alongside the iconic El Primero chronograph movement, the Le Locle-based brand also has a scope of beautiful automatic movements in the Elite program.
These classic Elite models are the most restrained among them, in any event, swearing off a date complication and displaying the time with only three hands.
This watch is a modern 42 mm in diameter, and it packs quite a touch of character into the dial, mainly on account of the subtle sunburst design. What is also a nice touch is that the slender hour markers are doubled on all the even numbers.
While the alligator skin lash provides a clue that this watch is definitely more precious than it likes to say, its appearance is hard to place: it very well may be a very well-preserved vintage model or indeed a modern-day creation (which it actually is). This is to some extent due to the extent of the bezel in relation to the dial.
Zenith has also opted to show the movement through a sapphire crystal case back, which has a full-sized rotor that is to some extent skeletonized to highlight the Zenith logo.
The case back itself is well made, and the different decoration techniques also make it evident with regards to why Zenith decided to show all this: Geneva stripes on the oscillating weight, circular graining on the primary plate, and motor turning around the movement. The movement is deliberately less understated than dial side.
For more data, please visit www.zenith-watches.com/en/elite6150 .
Quick Facts Zenith Elite 6150
Case: 42 x 9.45 mm, stainless steel
Movement: automatic Caliber Elite 6150, power hold 100 hours, twin spring barrels, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
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Introducing Slim d’Hermès: The Elegant New Backbone Of The Hermès Collection
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