When Italians make Swiss watches, we are always in for a treat. I guess this has something to do with numerous Italians being extremely passionate about mechanics and design being something of a religion.
Bulgari has been successfully mixing these two significant elements for quite a long time, and at the virtual 2021 LVMH Watch Week the brand showed that it continues to dominate at it.
In this article, I am brilliantly using my advantage as Quill & Pad’s resident courteous fellow to feature five of my #1 new 2021 watches from Bulgari.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo S: meager is in, yet a little thicker comes with benefits
For me the Octo Finissimo S is a definitive super slender watch. Also, that is despite it being thicker than the standard Octo Finissimo , in spite of the fact that at a stature of 6.4 mm it remains extremely distant from “thick.”
The advantage of those additional millimeters is increased water resistance to 100 meters. That turns the Octo Finissimo S into a genuine sports watch – while still excess the thinnest of its kind.
The new Octo Finissimo S Chronograph GMT is cool with its blue dial with white subdials, yet for me the Octo Finissimo S with silver-plated steel dial is the supreme creation.
Some may contend that titanium is the purest decision for any Octo Finissimo, yet I incline toward the shinier look of the stainless steel and its extra heft.
Combined with the vertically brushed dial, this has become my definitive gentleman’s sports watch. That is not a term I use softly, as I would see it there are precious couple of watches combining polish with sportier qualities.
While discussing the new Octo Finissimo S with a companion who works for a Bulgari retailer, he mentioned an excellent objective fact. Like me, he considers the S line a welcome and complementary expansion to the Octo Finissimo assortment. In any case, we both feel Bulgari could make a superior showing with making it stand out.
I am not pondering sporty stripes on the dial or anything like that – it isn’t a muscle vehicle – yet perhaps a small detail in the design to set it separated in a subtle yet distinct manner from the “customary” Octo Finissimo.
This way, the watch’s actual potential may be communicated in a slightly more vocal way, making the now extensive group of Octo Finissimo models easier to distinguish from each other.
For more data, please visit www.bulgari.com/en-int/watches/by-assortment/octo .
Quick Facts Bulgari Octo Finissimo S
Case: 40 x 6.4 mm, stainless steel
Development: super slim programmed Caliber BVL138, 2.23 mm in stature, 21,600 vph/3 Hz recurrence, 60-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds
Cost: $12,000/€12,300/CHF 11,600 (accessible in May 2021)
Divas’ Dream Peacock: did Bulgari make the most lovely ladies watch?
If there at any point was a watch line to cause one to consider a sex change, it is the Divas’ Dream Peacock . The worst part is that there is not one, but rather three new watches making a compelling case for accomplishing something so outrageous. Among the new threesome, however, it is difficult to choose a top choice as they are so not the same as each other.
The principle subject of these watches is, you guessed it, the peacock . In the press releases, Bulgari refers to this bird as “nature’s most diva-like figure.” Anybody who has been around peacocks knows that there is a lot of truth to this, despite the fact that it is principally the male peacock that displays this conduct, putting his splendorous colors on display to impress the more modest looking female.
The term diva can seem somewhat odd regarding such a glad, beautiful, and masculine bird, yet this is not the situation. Consider the male peacock the Louis XIV of the animals of the world collectively: an absolute ruler displaying his splendor as a method of showing superior power.
When we consider watchmaking, we commonly consider individuals assembling a complex development, machining a case to extraordinary detail, or making a dial out of terrific feu polish. We don’t consider somebody sorting through hundreds of fallen peacock feathers to discover the ones with the best and most harmonious coloring.
Yet that is actually how was dealt with make the Divas’ Dream Peacock Dischi. Furthermore, it doesn’t stop there: each quill is passed through an antique brass steamer to rejuvenate its colors completely prior to being pressed flat.
Peacock plume dials were a specialty pattern in watchmaking during the 1970s (and again around ten years prior), however the restoration Bulgari presently proposes is undeniably more complex as this is peacock quill marquetry. This means that the feathers are sorted based on shading and surface and afterward slice into the correct shape to be used in a mosaic-like way.
The result is so amazingly excellent that it has an extremely respectable possibility of outshining a genuine peacock.
A key component to the style and mystery of the Divas’ Dream Peacock Dischi is that Bulgari combined the bright quill marquetry with another restoration that was famous during the 1950s: the mystery watch. The mystery is clarified by two transparent disks (one for the hour and one for the minutes) pivoting on the dial.
This construction allows the peacock feathers to completely unfurl altogether their profundity, width, and shading while Bulgari ensures the watch remains a pragmatic watch by denoting the hours in the precious stone set bezel with blue sapphires.
With the Divas’ Dream Peacock Diamonds, I discover the name somewhat misplaced. Yes, diamonds elegance the refined arm band, bezel and parts of the dial, permitting Bulgari to show its experience as a gems producer, however it is the hand-painted “feathers” against the mother-of-pearl dial that makes the peacock really come to life on this watch.
These give it polish and refinement while featuring Bulgari’s capacity to create imaginative designs and execute them flawlessly by combining several métiers d’art.
The wristband of the Divas’ Dream Peacock Diamonds is the place where Bulgari shows that it settled on the correct decisions in the advancement phase as I don’t feel that it would have looked similarly as great on a strap. The shape of the links mirrors that of the feathers, making solidarity in design.
The third watch in this assortment, the Divas’ Dream Peacock Tourbillon Lumière, is also the most complex. Not in the manner it is finished, but rather more so because it is fitted with a tourbillon. Bulgari skeletonized the development and applied a layer on top set with diamonds and peacock marquetry. The result is still very dashing, yet to me not as intense as the other two watches. I don’t feel that watches like this need a profoundly complex development as they remove some of the spotlight from the artistry.
For more data, please visit www.bulgari.com/en-int/watches/by-assortment/divas-dream .
Quick Facts Bulgari Divas’ Dream Peacock Dischi
Case: 37 mm, pink gold set with diamonds and sapphires, crown set with sapphire cabochon
Dial: characteristic peacock quill marquetry
Development: programmed Caliber BVL 308 Dischi
Functions: hours, minutes on two disks
Restriction: 50 pieces
Quick Facts Bulgari Divas’ Dream Peacock Diamonds
Case: 37 mm, pink gold set with diamonds, crown set with sapphire cabochon
Dial: white mother-of-pearl set with splendid cut diamonds and adorned with hand-painted peacock plume theme in 14 colors using the champlevé procedure
Development: programmed Caliber BVL 191, 42-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes
Quick Facts Bulgari Divas’ Dream Peacock Tourbillon Lumière
Case: 37 mm, pink gold set with diamonds, crown set with sapphire cabochon
Dial: skeletonized dial with regular peacock quill marquetry and splendid cut diamonds
Development: manual winding Caliber BVL 208 with one-minute tourbillon, 3 Hz/21,000 vph recurrence, 64-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes
Impediment: 10 pieces
Bulgari Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon: devotion to the complication
One of Bulgari’s qualities that enriches the watch world is that it is fit for changing conventional perceptions of specific types of watches. The best model is the Octo Finissimo, which has entered the fight for the thinnest watch and development. Bulgari also picked not to serve up its super dainty wonder in a conventional, classically slanted gold watch, however instead went for a precise design in titanium.
With complications, albeit significantly more a specialty market, Bulgari has done likewise – as the new Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon highlights.
With its 44 mm case, it is enormous, almost gigantic, yet that doesn’t trouble me. There are two reasons for this: firstly, Bulgari joined the short lugs straightforwardly on, and at the same level as, the case back. This optimizes wearing comfort.
Secondly, and all the more critically, everything in this watch has been done to amplify and upgrade sound. Most watches with a chimes strike mechanism have a case created in precious metals like gold and platinum. Sadly, these metals dull the sound in which so much time and exertion have been invested in the first spot. Bulgari used titanium for the case to keep the sound as dynamic as possible.
Titanium also plays a significant part in the design of the watch: it is almost as on the off chance that it had given the brand the freedom to make the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon contemporary looking, almost industrial.
As everything is committed to making the sound as vivacious and noisy as possible, both the case and dial highlight a furrowed lattice. As a component of the development is visible through the dial, this creates the same atmosphere as a present day, superior sports car.
The design gives the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon a sense of dynamic that is uncommon for a watch of its sort. Eventually, while actually tempting, I don’t know whether I would call this watch delightful. It doesn’t have the refined looks of the Divas’ Dream Peacocks or the Octo Finissimo S.
However, the Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon does possess a mystical fascination – it is evidently enrapturing – and that is perhaps a considerably more extraordinary type of beauty.
Quick Facts Bulgari Octo Roma Carillon Tourbillon
Case: 44 mm, dark DLC-covered titanium
Development: manual winding Caliber BVL 428 with one-minute tourbillon, 3 Hz/21,600 vph recurrence, 75-hour power reserve
Functions: hours, minutes; power reserve pointer, minute repeater with three-hammer bells with Westminster ring
Restriction: 15 pieces
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