Aerosmith’s Steven Tyler probably didn’t have the watch world as a top priority when he sang the accompanying lyrics in 1997: ” Pink, it’s my new fixation. Pink, it’s not so much as an inquiry .”
Perhaps it’s simply the company I keep, yet I can’t help suspecting that pink-dialed watches are standing out enough to be noticed. Today, much more so than in 2018 when I reviewed Serving Salmon: Watches With Sublime Salmon-Colored Dials And Why They Remain Rare , it appears that more collectors are appreciating pink-dialed watches.
Don’t misunderstand me: salmon-colored dials are still niche market, and I don’t expect them to go mainstream anytime soon, yet pink has become something of a buzz topic.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon: a warmer shade of pale
That not all pink is created equal became abundantly clear with the introduction of the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon at the 2019 SIHH. What resembles a perfect salmon color in photographs is a somewhat unique shade of pink in real life.
In the metal, it becomes clear that the dial of the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon has to a greater degree a coppery than a pink tone, which isn’t so particularly astounding as A. Lange & Söhne crafted the dial in strong pink gold and didn’t treat it with a layer of color.
The reason that the dial looks so pink also has to do with different colors it is combined it with. The white gold case makes the dial appears somewhat paler than it actually is (later on in this article, we encounter a watch where the inverse happens). And the blued hands and moon phase plate add to the effect as their brilliant color mollifies that of the dial.
A. Lange & Söhne made the correct choice in going for a strong pink gold dial. Not just because it is Lange we are talking about, and such a precious dial suits the brand, yet in addition because it needs the warmer copper tone to present to it all together.
Had A. Lange & Söhne selected a painted dial in a lighter shade of pink, the watch may have looked somewhat less spectacular. Especially with pink dials, the particular tint makes all the difference.
For more information, please visit www.alange-soehne.com/en/timepieces/datograph-perpetual-tourbillon/datograph-perpetual-tourbillon .
Quick Facts A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Ref. 740.056
Case: 41.5 x 14.6 mm, white gold
Dial: 18-karat pink gold
Development: manually twisted Caliber L952.2 with one-minute tourbillon; 50-hour power hold, 2.5 Hz/18,000 vph frequency, scaffolds and plates in German silver, assembled twice, 729 development parts including a diamond endstone
Functions: hours, minutes; subsidiary seconds; flyback chronograph with precisely bouncing moment counter; perpetual calendar with large date, day of week, month, and leap year display; moon phase display; power hold indicator
Limitation: 100 pieces
Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink: pink as a masculine color
While today pink is frequently associated with ladies, as I’ve recently composed this was and isn’t always so. Hublot wanted to make a watch with sexually unbiased case color and did as such with the Big Bang Millennial Pink.
Hublot not just has a point from a historical perspective yet additionally from a horological one. Pink-dialed watches are as easily worn by ladies as they are by men – that is, if the shade of pink is the correct one. This is probably also where the utilization of “salmon ” comes into play.
While my salmon may appear to be unique from your salmon, we can probably agree that it isn’t hot pink. The expression “salmon” brings the range of shades much closer together, although it won’t ever exactly characterize the color. Hublot also knows this and selected a pale pink color on the Big Bang Millennial Pink.
As with the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, the dial’s metal also makes a difference. By utilizing anodized aluminum, the Hublot dial gains a slight metallic look, giving the pink a vibrant touch that looks shockingly good.
That said, while the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon may entice classically inclined collectors, the Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink is probably going to be more popular with more youthful, more adventurous clients.
That isn’t so astonishing, nor is it an issue, as the Big Bang Millennial Pink was created to make a statement, one that makes us consider how a color can foreordain and influence our deepest considerations just by being that color.
For more information, please visit www.hublot.com/en-nl/watches/big-bang/big-bang-millennial-pink .
Quick Facts Hublot Big Bang Millennial Pink
Case: 42 x 14.5 mm, satin-completed and cleaned pink anodized aluminum
Development: automatic Caliber HUB1280, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency, 72-hour power save
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date, flyback chronograph
Limitation: 200 pieces
Price: €20,700/$20,900/CHF 19,900
Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor: pink in its most flawless form
One store brand who understands the nuances of a pink-colored dial is Laurent Ferrier.
In this variation of its Classic Micro-Rotor, the dial takes center stage by being fitted into a stainless steel case paired with exceptionally thin hands and hour markers.
Laurent Ferrier decided on a rather pale tone of pink, however enhances the color by utilizing two unique completions. The actual dial is finely brushed, while the subdial isn’t, giving a magnificent nuance to the watch that is barely enough to spark the pink dial to life.
This leads me to perhaps another reason why pink-dialed watches are relatively rare: they are not that easy to get directly in relation to the whole watch.
For more information, please visit www.laurentferrier.ch/collection/classic/micro-rotor/.
Quick Facts Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor
Case: 40 x 10.7 mm, stainless steel
Development: automatic Caliber FBN 229.01 with micro rotor and natural escapement, 72-hour power hold, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency, officially certified chronometer (Besançon)
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds
Price: approx. $44,000
Habring2 Doppel-Felix: the strap completes the vibe
Habring2 follows the same recipe as Laurent Ferrier for its Doppel-Felix. Here we also have a brushed wrap up, giving the color more character, with subdials that stand out thanks to an alternate texture.
Richard and Maria Habring also take it above and beyond as they offer the Doppel-Felix on a dark-colored strap with pink-colored stitching. I’m a big devotee to the difference a strap can make, and this Doppel-Felix variation once again demonstrates that while the watch could have become a classic suggestion on earthy colored alligator, the strap it is on now gives it a far more energetic appearance.
This is perhaps also why pink-colored watches remain popular: they retain a current vibe and, when executed correctly, stay out of pattern region.
For more information, please visit www.habring2.com/en/collection/doppel-felix .
Quick Facts Habring2 Doppel-Felix
Case: 42 mm, stainless steel
Development: manual breeze Caliber A11R (or A11RD with date), 48-hour power save
Functions: hours, minutes, (hacking) seconds; split-seconds chronograph, date included on solicitation
Price: €7,750 (or €8,250 with date)
Santos de Cartier x Arab Watch Club: doing things differently
Despite the fact that pink-colored dials are niche, there are advancements in this area (I may even dare to say patterns). Quite possibly the most important is the way that the color is being combined with different colors and materials.
For decades, pink-colored dials were served straight up, combined with white-colored metals on earthy colored straps or metal bracelets. Thusly, the pink became the overwhelming focus. In any case, recent advancements have shown that pink can also hold its ground when blended into a nice cocktail.
Earlier in 2021, Arab Watch Club launched its absolute first collaboration with Cartier, which included not one but rather three watches.
The first follows a familiar topic as this Santos de Cartier features a white gold case with a pink dial. The curve with this watch is that it features a bezel in black DLC coating. This combination functions admirably and restrains the pink color of the dial.
It becomes considerably more spectacular in the two different watches, which feature the same black DLC-coated bezel and pink dial combined with a pink gold case. Both the Santos de Cartier and the Santos-Dumont available in this combination become shockingly charismatic.
It set aside me some effort to become acclimated to the striking and unexpected combination of colors and materials, yet it works. The pink dial comes across contrastingly because of the pink gold case, receiving all the more a copper tone.
One could perhaps best compare it to a chef serving your favorite dish with a curve you hadn’t tasted before.
For more information, please visit www.arabwatchguide.com/santos-de-cartier .
Quick Facts Santos de Cartier x Arab Watch Club
Case: 39.8 x 9.08 mm, satin-completed and cleaned pink gold with black DLC-coated bezel
Development: automatic Caliber 1847 MC, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency, 42-hour power save
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date
Limitation: 6 pieces
Czapek & Cie Faubourg de Cracovie Sockeye: salmon by nature, salmon by name
Czapek & Cie is a brand that loves to get things done with a contort – and not just on its pink-dialed watches. Czapek is the solitary brand that officially alludes to this pink dial color as “salmon,” both in the watch’s description and its name.
The Czapek & Cie Faubourg de Cracovie Sockeye is named after a species of salmon found in the northern Pacific and the streams connected to it. An intriguing detail is that this species is primarily (brilliant) red in tint during spawning season.
The dial of this Czapek is a beautifully pink and intertwined with a dark blue date haggle. In combination with blued hands and hour marker laying out, the color blend creates an enticing watch that presents salmon with a wind. The watch is dynamic, with neither one of the colors overwhelming the other.
Czapek also plays with surfaces as the salmon-colored parts of the dial feature a distinctive guilloche pattern that appears to surge like a tornado around the subdials, emitting the impression of two eyes.
This pattern forestalls the Faubourg de Cracovie Sockeye from becoming exclusively classical, injecting a vibrant dynamic that is by all accounts a general new pattern, especially in pink-colored dials.
While pink shades are as yet available in classically inclined watches, they are also presented diversely nowadays, frequently by another generation of horological chefs.
For more information, please visit www.czapek.com/product/sockeye .
Quick Facts Czapek & Cie Faubourg de Cracovie Sockeye
Case: 41.5 mm, stainless steel case
Development: automatic Caliber SXH3, 36,000 vph/5 Hz frequency, 65-hour power save, officially chronometer certified
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; date; chronograph
Limitation: 18 pieces
Price: CHF 28,000
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