One of the extraordinary focal points of having a place with the moderately affectionate community of watch authorities is that one has the opportunity to see a ton of incredible watches.
Even the little group of devotees that I spend time with consistently aggregately claims a significant variety of probably the best watches I know – and as they are liberal fellows, I have fairly customary opportunities to see, take a stab at, and photograph a portion of these fantastic pieces.
That’s extraordinary for me since like many watch devotees, I’ve likewise gone somewhat nuts about photography. Specifically, large scale photography, which at my moderately unassuming degree of competence provides an opportunity to slouch over a camera and light tent for huge chunks of time, fiddling with camera, focal point, and watches, hoping that in any event a few of the subsequent pictures will justify the stiff neck and stressed eyes.
There is currently a payoff, however: from time to time, as part of my “devotee authority” job here at Quill & Pad I will be investigating watches that make me excited, and imparting the visual outcomes to you alongside a few perceptions on photography, the actual watches, and the gatherers who own them.
Let’s begin, will we? Our subject for this episode: the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with remontoir d’égalité.
My photography coach, the absurdly skilled Ming Thein , sets out four components needed for a decent picture: light, subject, composition, and story.
Regardless of your opinion about the lighting and composition of this first shot, I hope that you will concur that the subject is a humdinger! The Tourbillon Souverain was the first model sold by Mr. Journe’s eponymous enterprise, F.P Journe. Notwithstanding its specialized sophistication, it set the reason for the visual style and configuration signs that are normal for Journe’s watches to this day.
Many straightforwardly perceptible visual components disclose to us that this is a Journe observe a long time before we see his name or read the Invenit et Fecit aphorism on the dial.
These incorporate the utilization of silvered subdials with screw-mounted steel frames; the fonts; the resplendent appearance of the fundamental subdial with its explicit naming of hours and minutes, railroad track, and guilloche focus; the shapes of the hands and connects; and even the trademark crown with its rope edge motif.
There is an inalienable danger to getting into watch photography as a watch aficionado: blending the two interests puts you at a genuine peril of purchasing watches when you weren’t planning to do as such! In this occurrence, a friend of mine found out if I would take a few pictures of his Journe tourbillon with the goal that he could post the watch for sale.
I happily took him up on his offer, however then something completely predictable happened: I was unable to put this one down. He did (or didn’t, depending on your point of view) help by urging me to “feel free to keep it and wear it around for a while.”
Suffice it to say that one thing prompted another, and now this piece occupies a place of pride in my own assortment. Perhaps I’ll get back to this watch here on Quill & Pad at some later time and provide a full survey that sets out the entirety of its temperances as I see them.
But for now, I’ll simply point out your the white gold dial and its beautiful tone. These early white gold dials from Journe have a tone I haven’t seen elsewhere – just about a champagne tone – that I could gaze at for hours and that, for me, is the ideal complement to the crisper appearance of the platinum case.
If this watch is so incredible, you ask, why on earth was my pal selling his? Things being what they are, he had recently purchased the one shown below.
Wait a moment – isn’t that a similar watch? All things considered, yes and no! Obviously, it is additionally an early Tourbillon Souverain, in fact, significantly prior in the arrangement than mine. The most evident difference is the yellow gold dial, and any yellow, yet a striking, deep yellow that is to numerous a significantly more appealing tone than my “champagne” dial.
It is a dial extraordinarily prized by Journe authorities. Because of the reflectivity of the dial, it’s extremely difficult to capture its actual pith – yet perhaps this next shot will give you a sense.
Despite the apparent likeness of the two watches, there are additionally a few other unobtrusive differences between them that lovers talk about and banter. Investigate the one next to the other picture beneath and perceive the number of you can spot.
I may really miss a couple of myself, yet dependent on both examination and personal perception, I’d say that in comparison to my watch, the yellow-dialed one is different in the following ways:
The word “Remontoir” is somewhat more like 12 o’clock. Likewise, the font of the expression “Remontoir d’Egalité” additionally appears to be marginally different than that on the white gold-dialed watch. In addition to other things, if you look carefully you can see that the apostrophe is bended on my friend’s watch and straight on mine.
- It has a different, more modest font for the power hold indicator.
- It utilizes a lot bigger, and fairly more natural, spots for the seconds on the ring encompassing the opening for the tourbillon.
- There is a poising opening in the tourbillon confine itself (you can simply see it if you take a gander at the spot on the pen just to the left of the 16-second imprint on the encompassing ring).
- It has a slanted edge around the remontoir connect opening (the circular opening at 6 o’clock) as opposed to an adjusted edge on a similar opening on my watch.
- The remontoir chicken (that little one-arm connect at 6 o’clock) has a bended, as opposed to flat, upper surface.
- The word “Invenit” is positioned marginally toward the external edge of the dial, however this could simply be a byproduct of the hand-printing strategy utilized.
- The time (hours/minutes) subdial appears more brilliant. This might be an optical hallucination given the different iridescences of the principle dials of the two watches, or might be a function of a covering added to the subdial of my watch during its new full assistance, as I haven’t read about this particular shading difference in any of my research.
- There are a bigger number of things on this rundown than one would expect, I suppose. On later watches in this equivalent arrangement, there were considerably more changes – little and enormous – including the thickness of the little sharp edge of the remontoir system at 6 o’clock, the measurement of the screws fixing the dial to the development, and most importantly, the tone and patina of the fundamental dials.
The differences between the two watches were adequately important to my friend that he jumped at the opportunity to do the switch, and toward the day’s end both he and I are pleased as punch. This, as far as I might be concerned, helps to show why the expression “devotee authority” has meaning: it refers to somebody who has the passion to learn and think often about the differentiations that separate an appealing watch from one that is “perfect” for the person in question. Also the conviction to put their well deserved cash behind that passion.
If you’ve been taking a gander at the photos carefully – and if you’ve gotten this far I am speculating that you have – you have just learned one important fact about watch photography: the full scale focal point (especially when coupled with a high-goal camera like my Nikon D800E) is a cruel mistress.
Woe be unto her or him who prior to shooting doesn’t contribute the time expected to clean the watch completely, as each speck of residue will appear as though a stone and any wanderer strings appear to assume the size of those ropes they use to tie up sea liners.
As we take a gander at my pal’s new pride and bliss, we can unmistakably see that it needs a full help – bunches of disintegrated glue inside the gem around its edge (and even a type of red string that has worked its way in there), filthy, spent oils on large numbers of the steel surfaces, pitting on the hands, lopsided patina on the primary dial, scratches looking into it, thus on.
Happily, as my “new” watch shows, Journe works really hard reconditioning watches to approach unique form, so I’m anticipating seeing (and photographing) the yellow-dialed observe once it gets back from its trip to Geneva.
So, which one is it for you?
For more information, please visit fpjourne.com/eu/assortments en-sln-1.html.
Quick Facts F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain
Case: platinum or red gold, 38 mm
Development: physically twisted Caliber 1498 with steady force directed by remontoir d’égalité
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds (on tourbillon confine); power hold marker
Price: initially ca. $120,000 in platinum, ongoing closeout deal prices fluctuate somewhere in the range of $70,000 and $95,000 (counting buyer’s premium)
Production years: 1999 through 2004
Comment: this model was subsequently replaced by the Tourbillon Souverain with remontoir and miscreant seconds (still in production) powered by Caliber 1403 with 18-karat gold plates and scaffolds; accessible in 38 and 40 mm platinum and red gold cases
* This article was first published on May 25, 2014 at Behind The Lens: The F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain .
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