One of the incredible favorable circumstances of having a place with the generally affectionate community of watch authorities is having the opportunity to see a ton of extraordinary watches.
Even the little group of devotees that I spend time with consistently on the whole possesses a significant combination of the absolute most noteworthy watches I know – and as they are liberal fellows, I have fairly normal opportunities to see, take a stab at, and photograph a portion of these fantastic pieces.
That’s incredible for me since like many watch lovers, I’ve additionally gone somewhat nuts about photography. Specifically, large scale photography, which at my moderately unassuming degree of competence provides an opportunity to slouch over a camera and light tent for a ridiculous amount of time, fiddling with camera, focal point, and watches, hoping that in any event a few of the subsequent pictures will justify the stiff neck and stressed eyes.
There is presently a payoff, however: from time to time, as part of my “aficionado gatherer” job here at Quill & Pad I will be investigating watches that make me excited, and imparting the visual outcomes to you alongside a few perceptions on photography, the actual watches, and the authorities who own them.
Let’s begin, will we? Our subject for this episode: the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with remontoir d’égalité.
My photography coach, the unbelievably gifted Ming Thein , sets out four components needed for a decent picture: light, subject, composition, and story.
Regardless of your opinion about the lighting and composition of this first shot, I hope that you will concur that the subject is a humdinger! The Tourbillon Souverain was the first model sold by Mr. Journe’s eponymous enterprise, F.P Journe. Notwithstanding its specialized sophistication, it set the reason for the visual style and configuration signals that are normal for Journe’s watches to this day.
Many straightforwardly observable visual components disclose to us that this is a Journe observe a long time before we see his name or read the Invenit et Fecit witticism on the dial.
These incorporate the utilization of silvered subdials with screw-mounted steel frames; the fonts; the fancy appearance of the principle subdial with its explicit marking of hours and minutes, railroad track, and guilloche focus; the shapes of the hands and connects; and even the trademark crown with its rope edge motif.
There is an intrinsic danger to getting into watch photography as a watch aficionado: blending the two diversions puts you at a genuine peril of purchasing watches when you weren’t planning to do as such! In this case, a friend of mine found out if I would take a few pictures of his Journe tourbillon with the goal that he could post the watch for sale.
I happily took him up on his offer, yet then something totally predictable happened: I was unable to put this one down. He did (or didn’t, depending on your point of view) help by urging me to “feel free to keep it and wear it around for a while.”
Suffice it to say that one thing prompted another, and now this piece occupies a place of pride in my own assortment. Perhaps I’ll get back to this watch here on Quill & Pad at some later time and provide a full audit that sets out the entirety of its temperances as I see them.
But for now, I’ll simply point out your the white gold dial and its beautiful tone. These early white gold dials from Journe have a tone I haven’t seen elsewhere – right around a champagne tone – that I could gaze at for hours and that, for me, is the ideal complement to the crisper appearance of the platinum case.
If this watch is so extraordinary, you ask, why on earth was my pal selling his? Incidentally, he had recently purchased the one shown below.
Wait a moment – isn’t that a similar watch? All things considered, yes and no! Obviously, it is likewise an early Tourbillon Souverain, in fact, much prior in the arrangement than mine. The most clear difference is the yellow gold dial, and any yellow, yet a striking, deep yellow that is to numerous a significantly more appealing shade than my “champagne” dial.
It is a dial extraordinarily prized by Journe gatherers. Because of the reflectivity of the dial, it’s difficult to capture its actual substance – however perhaps this next shot will give you a sense.
Despite the apparent likeness of the two watches, there are likewise a few other inconspicuous differences between them that lovers talk about and banter. Investigate the one next to the other picture beneath and perceive the number of you can spot.
I may really miss a couple of myself, however dependent on both exploration and personal perception, I’d say that in comparison to my watch, the yellow-dialed one is different in the following ways:
The word “Remontoir” is marginally more like 12 o’clock. Additionally, the font of the expression “Remontoir d’Egalité” likewise appears to be somewhat different than that on the white gold-dialed watch. In addition to other things, if you look carefully you can see that the apostrophe is bended on my friend’s watch and straight on mine.
- It has a different, more modest font for the power hold indicator.
- It utilizes a lot bigger, and to some degree more natural, specks for the seconds on the ring encompassing the opening for the tourbillon.
- There is a poising opening in the tourbillon confine itself (you can simply see it if you take a gander at the spot on the pen just to the left of the 16-second imprint on the encompassing ring).
- It has a sloped edge around the remontoir connect opening (the circular opening at 6 o’clock) as opposed to an adjusted edge on a similar opening on my watch.
- The remontoir rooster (that little one-arm connect at 6 o’clock) has a bended, instead of flat, upper surface.
- The word “Invenit” is positioned somewhat toward the external edge of the dial, however this could simply be a byproduct of the hand-printing procedure utilized.
- The time (hours/minutes) subdial appears more brilliant. This might be an optical fantasy given the different glows of the fundamental dials of the two watches, or might be a function of a covering added to the subdial of my watch during its new full assistance, as I haven’t read about this particular shading difference in any of my research.
- There are a larger number of things on this rundown than one would expect, I suppose. On later watches in this equivalent arrangement, there were significantly more changes – little and huge – including the thickness of the little sharp edge of the remontoir instrument at 6 o’clock, the width of the screws fixing the dial to the development, and most importantly, the tone and patina of the primary dials.
The differences between the two watches were adequately important to my friend that he jumped at the opportunity to do the switch, and toward the day’s end both he and I are pleased as punch. This, as far as I might be concerned, helps to outline why the expression “aficionado authority” has meaning: it refers to somebody who has the passion to learn and think often about the qualifications that separate an appealing watch from one that is “perfect” for the person in question. Also the conviction to put their well deserved cash behind that passion.
If you’ve been taking a gander at the photos carefully – and if you’ve gotten this far I am speculating that you have – you have just learned one important fact about watch photography: the large scale focal point (especially when coupled with a high-goal camera like my Nikon D800E) is a cruel mistress.
Woe be unto her or him who prior to shooting doesn’t contribute the time expected to clean the watch altogether, as each speck of residue will appear as though a stone and any wanderer strings appear to assume the size of those ropes they use to tie up sea liners.
As we take a gander at my mate’s new pride and happiness, we can obviously see that it needs a full help – heaps of disintegrated cement inside the gem around its edge (and even a type of red string that has worked its way in there), grimy, spent oils on a large number of the steel surfaces, pitting on the hands, lopsided patina on the primary dial, scratches looking into it, thus on.
Happily, as my “new” watch shows, Journe works really hard reconditioning watches to approach unique form, so I’m anticipating seeing (and photographing) the yellow-dialed observe once it gets back from its trip to Geneva.
So, which one is it for you?
For more information, please visit fpjourne.com/eu/assortments en-sln-1.html.
Quick Facts F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain
Case: platinum or red gold, 38 mm
Development: physically twisted Caliber 1498 with steady force directed by remontoir d’égalité
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds (on tourbillon confine); power hold pointer
Price: initially ca. $120,000 in platinum, ongoing sale deal prices differ somewhere in the range of $70,000 and $95,000 (counting buyer’s premium)
Production years: 1999 through 2004
Comment: this model was subsequently replaced by the Tourbillon Souverain with remontoir and lowlife seconds (still in production) powered by Caliber 1403 with 18-karat gold plates and extensions; accessible in 38 and 40 mm platinum and red gold cases
* This article was first published on May 25, 2014 at Behind The Lens: The F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain .
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