Sometimes I can’t help thinking about what individuals like Rolex author Hans Wilsdorf, Jaeger-LeCoultre fellow benefactor Edmund Jaeger, and Louis Cartier would think in the event that they peered down from the sky and saw the current assortments offered by what was previously their companies.
And while we’re fantasizing, I am likewise inquisitive what Ferdinand Berthoud (1727-1807) would think about the wristwatches bearing his name today. Selected watchmaker-repairman to the French ruler and the French naval force in 1770, Berthoud spent a decent piece of his life addressing the “longitude issue.” His marine chronometers were fundamental for the French naval force to decide longitude on the high seas.
Berthoud died some time before the main wristwatches would show up, however Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, revived the name in 2015 . The new Berthoud watches got a particularly welcome that in 2016 Scheufele got what is broadly considered as the most desired prize in watchmaking, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève’s Aiguille d’Or , for Berthoud’s appearing FB 1.
This prize was granted for valid justifications: the plan, finish, and execution of the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 was remarkable. Also, Scheufele’s objective was clear: he needed to make a watch in 2015 that Berthoud himself may have planned. While many would agree that he most likely came extremely close in doing exactly that, others contended that nineteenth-century watchmaker presumably would not have selected to utilize a tourbillon in his watch.
While they may have very much been correct, this creation was without a doubt haute horlogerie of 2015 where a tourbillon by and large assists with advocating a specific value point that puts “another” extravagance brand on the guide. I don’t believe that Scheufele has a lot to stress over in that regard as Ferdinand Berthoud has set up itself in record time as a truly alluring brand making intriguing watches.
With the Chronomètre FB 2RE , Scheufele and his group make one more stride the correct way, tending to two components without a moment’s delay: the first octagonally molded instance of the FB 1 line, not cherished by everybody, is currently supplanted by a more customary round case. Also, rather than a tourbillon focal point of the audience, we currently have a one-second remontoir to give steady power alongside the chain-and-fusée assembly.
The circle is round
I was never annoyed by the octagonal instance of the FB 1 as I considered it a fairly unique plan giving the principal models from Ferdinand Berthoud with a special character. All things considered, I would not turn down the Chronomètre FB 2RE by virtue of its round case.
Quite in actuality: Ferdinand Berthoud gave the case such a modern 1800s look. This watch would most likely not post of spot on the wrist of an eighteenth-century French chief of naval operations. The state of the drags rushed to the case band encourages it stand apart among other round watches while building up unmistakable family binds to the past Ferdinand Berthoud models.
Another family quality it imparts to its kin is the survey window on the case for a look at the chain-and-fusée gathering in real life. An attractive, curiously large crown fills in as a guarantee that the Chronomètre FB 2RE is a joy to wind and set; it likewise complements the remainder of the design.
Ferdinand Berthoud picked a two-section stove terminated lacquer dial. The domed external part shows the railroad track for quite a long time, Arabic numerals checking seconds in augmentations of five, and Roman numerals indicating the hours. Combined with the level center segment of the dial, it makes for an appealing plan without compromising legibility.
The distinctive surface “heights” additionally have another bit of leeway: the novel “smooth” look of the veneer comes out considerably more as these two sections get the light at various points. It is then that you additionally notice that the content, numerals, and railroad track are not imprinted on the veneer, however are lacquer, an accomplishment requiring additional terminating in the oven – but one more opportunity to harm to the valuable dial.
While the dial is very exemplary in appearance, Ferdinand Berthoud got innovative with the hands. The hour and moment hands are both striking and skeletonized with unobtrusive tip plans, while the second hand is somewhat thin. This gives a powerful look intensified by the round stabilizer of the second hand as it ignores them. Maybe somewhat unconventional, yet it works. What’s more, it works well.
The Chronomètre FB 2RE comes in two variants. The primary highlights a white gold case with a white polish dial, while the second is a pink gold case with a dark lacquer dial. Which you favor is each of the a matter of taste.
The white gold Chronomètre FB 2RE has a wonderful, practically specialized look to it, while the traditionally rich pink gold with dark dial combination looks undeniably more valuable and luxurious.
That wonderful movement!
Any Ferdinand Berthoud as of now has an extremely elevated expectation with regards to its development, yet the Chronomètre FB 2RE outperforms all that have come before it.
The inside of the case includes a mirror clean so it mirrors the significance of the development. Here we likewise see an unmistakable motivation from Berthoud’s marine chronometers.
The development highlights two German silver plates got by columns with the vast majority of the stuff train sandwiched between. Therefore, the rear of the watch flaunts its actual treats: a chain-and-fusée get together and a one-second remontoir d’egalite, evenly situated side by side against the setting of the beautifully iced German silver plate.
The chain-and-fusée system hypothetically conveys power at a consistent power, paying little mind to the power of the heart. It accomplishes this gratitude to a cone-molded component called the fusée around which the chain winds and loosens up, moving and adjusting energy from the heart to the movement.
Utilized in early mechanical tickers and later brought into pocket watches during the seventeenth century, the chain and fusée was the primary critical system in convenient horology to improve isochronism. As the Dictionnaire Professionnel Illustré de L’Horlogerie by G.- A. Berner clarifies, “. . . the motions of a pendulum or equilibrium are isochronous when their span is autonomous of their amplitude.”
The remontoir d’égalité, a fairly more current steady power gadget, guarantees consistent force discharge by straightforwardly giving energy to the break wheel once each second, in this manner dispensing with annoyances and conveying a similar measure of capacity to the departure wheel without fail, further upgrading the watch’s precision.
The excellence of the movement’s configuration isn’t just that it is totally even, yet additionally that these two outstanding gadgets can be respected and appreciated in full.
Ferdinand Berthoud’s protected chain and fusée is just gotten from the base – indeed, it is “suspended” or “flying” – and uses a differential-based winding framework. The revolution of the spring barrel makes the chain loop around the fusée, which is outfitted with a strange differential stuff to maintain a strategic distance from any unexpected halting. The barrel is likewise directed by a Maltese cross stopwork gadget, which restricts the quantity of turns the barrel makes to utilize just the flattest piece of the spring’s force bend. This guarantees more consistency of power whether the origin is almost full or almost empty.
While the development is more than noteworthy from a specialized perspective, its completion is likewise best in class. The two plates and scaffolds in German silver have been hand-iced utilizing a wire brush, furnishing a fine grain for certain intelligent properties. This detail guarantees that the development parts above it are featured in an exceptionally unobtrusive way.
Furthermore, the development includes further amazing anglage, yet additionally dark clean on the astutely molded equilibrium rooster. Every one of the stuff teeth are cleaned flawlessly. This not just looks great, it likewise further lessens friction.
Big, thick, and expensive?
Priced at 210,000 Swiss francs the stunning Chronomètre FB 2RE doesn’t come modest. However, for that sort of cash you in a real sense get a great deal of watch.
Measuring 44 mm in width and 14.3 mm in tallness, the Chronomètre FB 2RE is a significant monumental watch on the wrist – for quite a few reasons. Its size likewise permits it to give a ton of everything: a ton of tasty polish on the dial, bunches of energizing subtleties working on it, and heaps of beautiful sight from outstanding amongst other looking developments to date.
Given all that – and the way that the watch’s finish meanders into Greubel Forsey domain, which is surely a benchmark as far as completing at this level – the value sounds practically sensible. Maybe I am one-sided on the grounds that I incline toward a remontoir d’egalite over a tourbillon any day of the week.
Ferdinand Berthoud is just making ten pieces in each shading accessible at dispatch, yet it is likely protected to say that different varieties will follow.
I am wagering on a (blue-dialed) platinum version, however expecting one in the carburized steel found in the Chronomètre FB 1R.6-1 . As I am in a betting state of mind, I likewise imagine that the chances that Scheufele may will get another Aiguille d’Or in 2020 are critical. The truth will surface eventually on the off chance that I am right.
For more data, kindly visit www.ferdinandberthoud.ch/en/notre-assortment/chronometre-fb-2re .
Quick Facts Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE
Case: 44 x 14.3 mm, white or pink gold
Development: fabricate Caliber FB-RE.FC, 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz recurrence with chain-and-fusée and one-second remontoir d’egalite, suspended spring barrel, Maltese cross stopwork framework, variable latency balance, power hold 50 hours; 1,200 components, including 790 for the chain, 26 scaffolds German silver, and 10 columns, authoritatively C.O.S.C. chronometer-affirmed
Capacities: hours, minutes, loser hacking seconds; power hold pointer on back
Constraint: 10 pieces in each tone
Cost: 210,000 Swiss francs
You may likewise enjoy:
Who Was Ferdinand Berthoud And Why Should We Care?
Ferdinand Berthoud Is Reborn With FB 1 Thanks To Chopard’s Karl-Friedrich Scheufele
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1R.6-1: Distinctly Different, Technically Superlative (And Videos)
Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 1: Chain-And-Fusée Constant Force And Tourbillon, But Sapphire Crystal Was The Greatest Challenge
Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1L: When History Has A Date With Progress