Primary Navigation

Our Predictions In The Chronometry Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is United, But Not Unanimous | Quill & Pad

Our Predictions In The Chronometry Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is United, But Not Unanimous | Quill & Pad

Welcome to the 2020 version of Quill & Pad’s initial Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève predictions in which the group picks favorites and explains why.

The panelists are:

Elizabeth Doerr (ED), prime supporter and proofreader in-chief

Ian Skellern (IS), prime supporter and specialized director

Joshua Munchow (JM), resident geek writer

GaryG (GG), resident collector

Martin Green (MG), resident gentleman

In the Chronometry classification , we find mechanical watches that contain in any event one tourbillon, as well as a special escapement, and additionally another improvement improving precision timekeeping. Extra indications and additionally complications are admissible.

GPHG 2020 selected Chronometry watches: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force, Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer, Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE.2, H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavor Cylindrical Tourbillon, Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris

GG: Show me the information! During my term as a GPHG legal hearer, I gave close consideration to the Chronometry competitors whose makers gave hard information through planning sheets and would in general place a bit of a discount on those who did not.

In the absence of knowing whether the finalists in this class really keep time or not, we are left to assess the inventiveness and oddity of the mechanisms used in the service of improved timekeeping, alongside the nature of construction and intelligibility of the visual presentation.

IS: The first thing to remember about the GPHG Chronometry class is that isn’t actually about chronometry, just as the complication categories aren’t about complications. On the off chance that it was about chronometry, it would be a planning competition and the most precise watch would win. Easy.

The Chronometry classification is simply about choosing the “best” watch from the named watches by whichever metric you wish, aside from precision! To justify a spot here, every one of the a watch requires is any (at least one) of the accompanying:

1. tourbillon (it doesn’t really need to improve precision).

2. a special escapement (it doesn’t really need to improve precision).

3. a mechanism that purports to improve precision (it doesn’t really need to improve precision).

I’m ashamed to concede that it has taken me years of participating in our making a decision about panels/guessing games to understand that the classification titles and the rules bear just the vaguest resemblance to what we are really judging. The title and rules are just there to offer some direction as to which watches qualify in the categories. After that it’s basically a “beauty contest’ using whatever meaning of beauty you wish.

My inclination is have one more guideline for qualifying in this class, a chronometry endorsement like COSC or other authority timing organization.

MG: This is the lone class that could be decided by facts as Chronometry is, in essence, about being as precise as possible. In this matter, I have always felt that this category’s champ should be dictated by a timekeeping competition as observatories used to do. Otherwise, what are you judging? Are you searching for the best-looking watch that is perhaps more precise than normal, or making a decision about the device’s potential with respect to improved chronometric performance?

JM: Ugh, the Chronometry classification, the bane of my judging because the entirety of the watches are awesome, yet none of these watches have any chronometric information to support the claims of improved precision from the special mechanisms created. I understand that this isn’t just a battle of the numbers, but the success of an endeavor at improved chronometry and mechanical consistency would be useful for separation and comparison. I definitely realize I feel like there is a tie, but I could contend on behalf of these watches.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Stainless Steel

IS: considering the three measures for section I spread out in my presentation comments, at first look you would be pardoned for thinking about how, with just hours, minutes, seconds, and a force reserve, no tourbillon and no special escapement, the Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force qualified in this classification, not to mention be named in the best six watches.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force in stainless steel with blue dial

I’d prefer to offer my appreciation to my kindred GPHG Academy members for perceiving the way that, at 16,900 Swiss francs, the Gravity Equal Force uses the same mechanism to amplify constant force from the barrel as another watch here costing in excess of ten times to such an extent (however that one has different tricks up its sleeve).

Imagine driving a vehicle in which the force of the motor didn’t just rely upon how far down you pushed the quickening agent, but had more force when the gas tank was full and could barely escape the carport when close to exhaust. That is the thing that a typical watch development has to adapt to from the mainspring. It’s a testament to the creativity of watchmakers throughout the long term that ordinary mechanical watches are as great as they are.

To go beyond the drawn out precision offered by a standard watch development, watchmakers have come up with complex (and expensive) solutions in the quest for more constant force to the escapement, going from fusée-and-chain power transmission from the mainspring barrel to remontoir d’égalité mechanisms in the escapement itself.

Armin Strom felt that instead of using a complex (and pricy) mechanism to give more constant force to the escapement, why not “simply” take power from the mainspring, where it has the flattest force bend, using a moderately simple Geneva cross mechanism and consistently power it with a productive programmed system, ensuring that when worn the mainspring is almost always at ideal force. That eliminates the enormous pinnacle and box in the force bend when the mainspring is completely twisted and close to purge. A moderately reasonable cost toward the vessel of constant force.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force in stainless steel

And you can observe most of the activity dial side, as the miniature rotor and mainspring barrel are both exceptionally visible. What’s more, at 41 mm it’s truly wearable. I like it very much.

ED: Armin Strom is one of those brands who is always contemplating how to improve things. Also, this mechanism results from that kind of reasoning. It is smart, affordable in the bigger sense of haute horlogerie, and entirely wearable. What’s more, it is unbelievably alluring. An every day wearer vessel without a doubt and my sprinter up in this category.

MG: I am a sucker for brands that come with unique solutions. I feel that the way that Armin Strom goes about increasing the precision of a watch may have made a definitive watch geek watch. You must be truly into watchmaking to understand this creation. Combine that with a strong, visual execution and you have my sprinter up in this class too.

ED: I do think, however, Martin, that regardless of whether you didn’t understand – or care about – this watch’s specialized imagination, you may still truly appreciate the manner in which it looks and wears. What’s more, remember that it is completely customizable using the Armin Strom Configurator !

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force in pink gold on the wrist

JM: The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force is a truly cool execution of a constant force mechanism inside a programmed mainspring barrel that has revisited the engine barrel design of more seasoned pocket watch movements. It truly was a principal reconsider of just what mechanisms we underestimate when another development is designed. Numerous old designs were just abandoned because the assembling precision wasn’t there or material science hadn’t made up for lost time yet.

Armin Strom revisiting old concepts and creating them with current tools is a thought precious to me. I couldn’t say whether the jury will see sufficient incentive in it to grant it top prize, as most of the advancement is inner and not obvious. Great descriptions could help, but I don’t see this piece breaking the top three.

GG: Armin Strom’s Gravity Equal Force is the latest in this brand’s stream of inventive watches and features a stop-works mechanism that the makers refer to as conveying “consistent force.” I’ll place it third simply because dissimilar to three of different watches in this gathering, it does really have a second hand!

IS: Great call, Gary! A Chronometry class where in excess of 80% of the entries didn’t have second hands . . . what might old planning competition masters think about that being the eventual fate of precision mechanical watches?

Further reading: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force: Invention Is No Accident, Or How To Start Fresh

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force: Looking Behind The Fresh, Funky Face (Video)

Quick Facts Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force

Case: 41 x 12.65 mm, stainless steel

Development: in-house programmed Caliber ASB19 with miniature rotor on dial side and Geneva-drive constant force barrel, 25,200 vph, recurrence, 72-hour power reserve

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; power reserve

Value: CHF 16,900

Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer

GG: The Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer is my second-place pick with its regular escapement and two exchanging five-second remontoirs. As far as I might be concerned, the esthetics of the piece, especially on the dial side, are not especially pleasing to the eye, but I’ll leave that as a matter of personal taste for the individual viewer.

Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer in white gold

ED: I like the esthetics of this version of the watch obviously superior to the next variety, which has a full dial that seems somewhat like it’s missing something in the top half because of the small seconds subdial’s position at 8 o’clock – at any rate from photos. I have not had the pleasure of seeing this one yet in the metal. (What’s more, having seen just four of six of these watches, I’m not sure if it’s a reasonable battle for me this year.)

MG: Where this watch is an absolute victor in idea and execution, it loses this in design. The back of the watch is beautiful as well as cautiously showcases all that makes this watch so special. As far as I might be concerned, this makes the front such a disappointment. The dial is fairly plain, but instead of go for full understatement, it has been given somewhat of a “Nataf-treatment” (which I named after Thierry Nataf, when Zenith’s CEO thus luxurious and outgoing that even after over 10 years we still haven’t been able to fail to remember him) with a couple of wild cutouts. As far as I might be concerned, this takes away a large part of the watch’s potential.

Stunning view through the display back to the development of the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer

JM: I as of late expounded on the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer and my contention will be the same here: the mechanism is incredible, the craftsmanship stunning, and the hypothesis seems pretty solid. But because of the difficulties with testing the rate there is still no information available for just how successful the design is, which frustrates me.

I also believe that the jury will be fine with this reality, especially since all the watches have no chronometric information to share, which means we are essentially deciding on idea alone. Therefore I am still choosing this piece as my projected victor, I can’t see any of the others sounding or seeming more plausible and impressive as this incredible undertaking by Bernhard Lederer.

IS: Back in August (which seems so some time in the past as of now), I had the chance to deal with the watch that I’m casting a ballot to win this classification on my first day at Geneva Watch Days . As soon as I turned that look after, I was unable to envision that another in-search-of-precision watch could come close. But then the exceptionally following day, I briefly got an opportunity to see Bernhard Lederer’s Central Impulse Chronometer and thought, “What happens next is anyone’s guess.” It was a beauty to behold.

Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer white gold (left) and opaline in pink gold

IS: Hours, minutes, and seconds don’t sound like a lot, but it’s Lederer’s Central Impulse escapement including two ten-second constant force mechanisms, all visible through cutouts in the dial (there’s also a full dial version, which I like), that gets the heart beating and a smile spreading. What’s more, you turn it over and the appreciation amp is gone up to 11: the development engineering and hand-finishing is simply stunning.

With a 44 mm case’s, a few millimeters bigger than it would be in my dreams, but none of that space is wasted and provides a view through the display back like a horological Sistine Chapel roof . Lederer has additionally refined the regular escapement, first brought about by John Harrison back in 1756 and approved by George Daniels .

My time with the Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer was very brief, and on the off chance that I had spent additional time I may have positioned it considerably higher. It’s my pick for an extremely close second spot in the Chronometry Category and will win if my number one pick is bumped up to the Aiguille d’Or.

Further reading: Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer*: A Superlative Watch But Is It Really A Chronometer?

Quick Facts Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer

Case: 44 x 12.2 mm, white gold

Development: manual winding Caliber 9012 with double stuff train with double 10-second remontoirs and normal escapements, 21,600 vph/3 Hz recurrence, 38-hour power reserve

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds

Restriction: 50 pieces

Value: CHF 138,700

Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity

GG: I would have put the Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity with its free unconventional escapement and particular but-classic styling and finishing considerably higher had it really gave some method of perusing the seconds.

Put another way, the producer’s statement that “precision is not, at this point displayed conspicuously but is discreetly valued by its proprietor” left me a bit unconvinced. I’m a bit conflicted on the way that it is a special piece: on one hand it shouldn’t actually matter, but on the other I do believe that there is merit in constructing a watch that meets the quality and replicability demands of serial creation. On the plus side, I have tremendous adoration for the completely hand tailored nature of this piece, and perhaps I’m the one in particular who insists that a chronometer display the time with precision.

Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity

ED: Not by any means, Gary. I’m accepting this stance as well, taking the Theo Auffret and the MB&F x Moser out of my running for best position in this classification because they don’t have second hands – as much as I respect various different characteristics about these three watches.

JM: This is a piece that looks fantastic and is obviously carefully assembled with passion and skill, but the mechanism itself seems less complex than the Bernhard Lederer for instance, causing me to feel like the awesomeness of the Brivet-Naudot could be neglected. In any case, the sheer commitment to fabrication can’t be ignored, and simplicity regularly attracts the eye because we anticipate that things should be messy and complicated.

The thing I see as possibly its biggest downside is that it is a novel piece, and that could provide individuals opportunity to stop and think to remunerate it with the top prize because with no hard information or evidence that this one wasn’t an accident, there may be respect given to watches that vibe a bit more creation level. Still, in the end I’m calling the Eccentricity as my number two pick, however very little expectation that it will wind up taking the prize regardless of how stunning it is.

Back of the Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity

IS: I love the Cyril Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity; it joins the small modest bunch of watches that I’d love to claim myself. Another moderately simple looking watch displaying hours and minutes in a concentric subdials at 3 o’clock. But there’s no dial, just a huge, vacant, gorgeously finished principle plate shaping a background to a conspicuously enormous, sedately beating 2.5 Hz balance. It’s simply stunning. What’s more, that isn’t anything compared to the perspective on the development through the display back: conventional pocket-watch design nirvana! All hand tailored and hand-finished, no CNC apparatus used. What’s more, with a 39 mm case it will completely fit most wrists.

And seriously, folks, that is all that anyone could need. But the what tops off an already good thing is Brivet-Naudot’s free unpredictable escapement, a refinement of the sans lubrication escapement designed by Louis Richard 200 years prior. Brivet-Naudot’s escapement bed switch comprises 12 parts by itself, underlining just how perplexing this controller is. On the downside, the Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity is a handcrafted one of a kind piece, and that is both its strength and its weakness here. The Eccentricity is my profoundly commendable number three pick here, but it’s also my pick for the Horological Revelation Prize for new brands.

Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity

MG: When it comes to watches, I am visually focused. This watch most positively scores points in that matter, front and back, albeit the last is my top choice. I feel that the front tries to be a bit too novel, also in the way that it indicates the time. A small, guilloche dial with two blued hands would have had a greater amount of an effect for me. Also, stainless steel for the case feels a bit odd, almost a bit of hindsight, as I believe that the watch would benefit from a more classic style and a more noble case material.

Quick Facts Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity

Case: 38.8 x 10.5 mm, stainless steel

Development: key-injury caliber, power reserve 40 hours; 2.5 Hz/18,000 vph recurrence

Functions: hours, minutes

Limit: special piece

Cost: 80,000 Swiss francs

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE.2

IS: One of my first thoughts on seeing the Ferdinand Berthoud at Geneva Watch Days in August was the means by which solid it looked and felt. It has presence; with a 44 mm case it really wanted to have presence. But there’s nothing obviously visible from the timeless, broiler terminated finish dial to show what’s in the engine with the exception of the one-second stepping of the focal seconds and the all-encompassing emanation of non-expense-spared quality.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE on the wrist

Then you turn it over. It’s as beautiful a development as I’ve at any point seen, and I’ve seen a couple. Absolutely stunning conventional pocket watch development engineering and simply superlatively hand-finished. It’s a show-stopper. Constant force is given by a customary fusée-and-chain assembly, and the force bend of capacity to the escapement is refined and swelled considerably further with a one-second remontoir d’égalité.

The Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE.2 was all consuming, instant adoration for me and is my pick as the victor of the this classification. Unless it is bumped up to the Aiguille d’Or.

View through the display back of the Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE in pink gold

ED: It’s difficult to follow your adoration letter to this watch with any new data, Ian, so suffice it to say that I pick it as my champ in this class for each and every one of the same reasons. I think it was the beautiful design of the development combined with the superlative finishing that secured it for me. My breath trapped in my throat when I turned the watch throughout interestingly. And afterward when Martin put it on his wrist, I saw how well it fit – it’s just as simple as that: I was lost to the charms of this masterpiece.

GG: On the bases of my early on remarks in regards to hard information and genuine chronometry, I will go with the Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE.2 as my victor this year. The combination of a fusée-and-chain mechanism with a super lightweight remontoir mounted coaxially with the balance positively meets the innovativeness test. Furthermore, extra specialized features such as the use of a featherweight titanium hand for the bouncing seconds should assist with ensuring that the watch functions as intended.

And while I haven’t took care of the watch, it positively looks to be beautifully executed and to my eye is the prettiest of the Berthoud references to date.

ED: I imagine that this watch is solidly in the running for the Aiguille d’Or alongside the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 , and I am just so happy that I don’t need to be one individuals to need to pick between them. They should just call a tie this year and be finished with it.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE in pink gold

JM: I absolutely love Ferdinand Berthoud and if this were some other year it is difficult to bet against the brand. But in the wake of seeing different pieces in the running I’m a bit worried that individuals will take a gander at the incredible FB 2RE.2 development and listen to the specialized discussion and conclude that the usage isn’t especially imaginative and inventive in the event that it is visually stunning.

The fabulous development is built around a constant force remontoir d’égalité and a fusée-and-chain mechanism, something that we have seen before in other classically inspired watches. What’s more, it might, just may, seem agreeable and customary when compared to what some others are doing. Hence, I am placing this in my third spot position for the category.

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE on the wrist

MG: I feel that the FB 2RE.2 (could this brand please give its beautiful watch an appropriate name and not one that sounds like R2D2’s cousin?) is satisfying Ferdinand Berthoud’s legacy considerably more than its predecessors by supplanting the ubiquitous tourbillon (luckily, I would almost say) with a one-second remontoir.

The finishing of the development is awesome and brings the brand to the highest plane we have in the watch world. The watch is big, but on the wrist it just all comes together. Visually it is a treat, not just because of the stunning finish dial and development design but also because of the case, which presently has an all the more easily digestible round shape. For me the victor in this category.

Further reading: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE: Change Is Round

Who Was Ferdinand Berthoud And Why Should We Care?

Quick Facts Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

Case: 44 x 14.3 mm, white or pink gold

Development: make Caliber FB-RE.FC, 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz recurrence with chain-and-fusée and one-second remontoir d’egalite, suspended spring barrel, Maltese cross stopwork system, variable latency balance, power reserve 50 hours; 1,200 components, including 790 for the chain, 26 bridges German silver, and 10 pillars, authoritatively C.O.S.C. chronometer-guaranteed

Functions: hours, minutes, deadbeat hacking seconds; power reserve marker on back

Limit: 10 pieces in each tone

Cost: 210,000 Swiss francs

H. Moser & Cie x MB&F Endeavor Cylindrical Tourbillon

IS: The Moser x MB&F Cylindrical Tourbillon is simply stunning. An ideal blend of customary watchmaking and contemporary design. It’s quite possibly the most spectacular and best-looking watches you could strap on your wrist. Also, that barrel shaped balance spring, pulsating and pivoting inside a flying tourbillon is a showstopper, directing the development under the dial through a cone shaped stuff train because while complex to make that offers the most productive torque.

H. Moser & Cie x MB&F Endeavor Cylindrical Tourbillon

IS: It’s all around easy to be overpowered by the entirety of the visual dynamics at play and not appreciate the nature of the horology, but it’s a microcosm of perfectly hand-finished conventional watchmaking. The H. Moser & Cie x MB&F Endeavor Cylindrical Tourbillon isn’t my pick to win here, but it would be my pick (so far) for the Audacity Prize.

GG: The Moser x MB&F Endeavor is a watch that I was extremely pleased to survey and photo for Quill & Pad, and it’s a beauty! In this company, however, the round and hollow hairspring tourbillon alone doesn’t stack up for me against some of the more outlandish chronometric innovations in this gathering, and it’s another piece that displays just the hours and minutes.

H. Moser & Cie x MB&F Endeavor Cylindrical Tourbillon

MG: Collaborations are usually something to be thankful for, and when Moser and MB&F combined forces recently, this was most absolutely the case. This collaboration observe pleasantly showcases the barrel shaped tourbillon of MB&F’s Thunderdome, but also seamlessly integrates the DNA of both brands without one overwhelming the other.

That is keenly done, but also brings with it a risk of the brands losing their specialness – and to me that is actually what occurred with this watch. It lacks the full force of the Moser, while it’s anything but a MB&F all things considered. That being said: for those who desire a MB&F with the edge removed, this is their watch.

H. Moser & Cie x MB&F Endeavor Cylindrical Tourbillon

ED: While I am an unabashed devotee of the MB&F Thunderdome and of H. Moser’s specific tone stylings – and I must concede that this Ice Blue is my top pick of the five dial colors initially released – I don’t think this watch stacks facing my main three in this class in the sense of this classification. Also, it does not have a second hand, which is a really clear must-need to check “chronometry” (“precision”). Nonetheless, thumbs up on this watch by and large – I love it.

JM: To me this is one of the more vulnerable entries in the class, and when we are discussing a collaboration between H. Moser and MB&F and the use of a barrel shaped tourbillon, we realize that the others must be killers. The Endeavor Cylindrical Tourbillon is certainly a stunning creation and liable to have a great deal of fans on the jury, but it feels precisely unambitious close to the competitors. The big uncover isn’t substantially more than an interesting spring, leaving huge opportunities to improve chronometry on the table. Of course, that wasn’t actually the purpose of the piece in the first spot, so I couldn’t say whether either brand will be that surprised in the event that they lose in the Chronometry class to someone else who spent years building up a brand-new escapement.

Further reading: Hands On & Live Photos: MB&F x H. Moser LM101 And H. Moser x MB&F Endeavor Cylindrical Tourbillon

Quick Facts Endeavor Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F

Case: 42 x 19.5 mm, stainless steel with high domed sapphire crystal; tallness without crystal 9.4 mm; crown at 9 o’clock, sapphire crystal on case back

Dial and hands: Ice Blue dial in sunburst-design seethe; hours and minutes displayed on 40-degree shifted sapphire crystal dial at 6 o’clock; leaf-shaped hour and moment hands with lume

Development: programmed Caliber HMC 810; 21,600 vph/3 Hz recurrence; one-minute flying tourbillon with round and hollow hairspring; power reserve 72 hours

Functions: hours, minutes

Impediment: restricted series of 15 examples in every one of five dial colors (75 absolute examples)

Cost: $79,000/79,000 Swiss francs

Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris

ED: I met Theo back in 2018 as I was one of the judges of the F.P. Journe-FHH Young Talent Competition , and Theo’s watch – the model of this one – was one of the winners. Also, I can say that I am incredibly, pleased to see how he has developed his idea and finished his model, transforming it into a genuine treat with a certifiable idea driving it. With the subscription thought, I can also see that he took some lessons gained from François-Paul Journe to heart. He can be pleased with what he has accomplished thus far as a free watchmaker. I feel that he has an immense future in front of him.

Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris

ED: However, I also feel that this watch may be slightly misplaced in this class. But what class to place it in? As we discussed in the GPHG 2020 Men’s Complication round table , time just and tourbillons probably are not exactly enough there, either.

GG: The Theo Auffret Tourbillon is a watch that I’d love to see in person, and it seems pleasantly done from the images. Furthermore, I need to give Auffret full kudos for offering to perform Besançon chronometer accreditation upon request to the buyer! As a “simple” tourbillon, nonetheless, it lacks the specialized chops of some of different entries, and as with some of the others it lacks a seconds display to permit the proprietor the pleasure of checking its precision against a reference clock initially. (UPDATE: we were educated there is a seconds display, which is simply difficult to see; it is important for the tourbillon confine – ED)

MG: While I like the methodology taken here combining classic with specialized, I also puzzle over whether the world needs another watch with a tourbillon? In this case, I feel that Auffret’s debut watch has sufficient making it work to answer this question with a yes. The design is thoroughly considered and has sufficient subtle details to permit me to build up a soft spot for this specific creation.

Beautiful development visible through the display back of the Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris

JM: This watch is a bit of a problem because it is the one in particular that didn’t attempt to make a lot of any recently designed mechanism (it is a genuinely straightforward development) but it also is the one in particular that will send your development to get chronometer guaranteed upon request. This means that, so far, this is the closest we are going to get to chronometric information – at any rate until different watches can get theirs tested. The bonus about Theo Auffret is that the Tourbillon à Paris is exceptionally customizable for every proprietor, so while being the closest we are getting to hard information for this moment, it also can be one of a kind to whomever buys one.

Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris

IS: It’s telling that both the new youthful brands in this class, Brivet-Naudot and Theo Auffret, have presented watches in 38-38.5 mm measurement cases without full dials to feature beautifully high quality and – finished development components. A couple of designated watches in the Men’s Complication classification seemed to be there simply because they had tourbillons, and apparently the Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris should have been there too.

There’s a “. . . a barrel containing an incredible spring, produced for chronometry . . .” but no further details gave. I believe that the Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris is a strong competitor for the Horological Revelation Prize but as great as it is, lamentably it’s outclassed here.

ED: Horological Revelation is the ideal spot for this one in the 2020 competition, Ian. As well as the Brivet-Naudot. Completely agree.

Further reading: Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris: Oh Là! A Very French Take On Traditional Watchmaking

Quick Facts Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris

Case: 38.5 x 12 mm, platinum, gold, silver, or steel

Development: manual winding caliber, 50-hour power reserve, 21,600 vph/3 Hz recurrence

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds

Constraint: 20 pieces in subscription

Cost: 114,000 Swiss francs

Predicted Winners

Elizabeth: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

Ian: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

Gary: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

Martin: Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE

Joshua: Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer

You may also enjoy:

Hands On & Live Photos: MB&F x H. Moser LM101 And H. Moser x MB&F Endeavor Cylindrical Tourbillon

Ferdinand Berthoud Chronomètre FB 2RE: Change Is Round

Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer*: A Superlative Watch But Is It Really A Chronometer?

Our Predictions In The Ladies Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Sprinkling Of Jewels, A Mismatched Date, And The Ever-Raging Debate On Quartz

Complete List And Photos Of All Shortlisted Watches In The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)

Our Predictions In The Iconic Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Another Head-Scratcher For Our Panelists But There’s A Clear Favorite

The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Jury Has Been Chosen: Commentary On The Judges Making The Choices For The Best Watches Of The Year

Our Predictions In The Men’s Complication Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Is A Tourbillon A Complication? Part Deux

Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): All 6 Are Potential Winners But Our Panelists Ruthlessly Whittle Them Down

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Is A Tourbillon Complicated Enough?