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Our Predictions In The Jewellery Category Of The 2018 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie De Genève: And Again With Diverse Viewpoints | Quill & Pad

Our Predictions In The Jewellery Category Of The 2018 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie De Genève: And Again With Diverse Viewpoints | Quill & Pad

Welcome to the 2018 version of Quill & Pad’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève forecasts in which the group picks top choices and clarifies why.

The specialists are:

Ian Skellern (IS), fellow benefactor and specialized chief

Joshua Munchow (JM), resident geek author

Martin Green (MG), resident man of honor

Ashton Tracy (AT), benefactor, watchmaker, and blogger at Horological Insider

Note: as jury individuals , editorial manager in-boss Elizabeth Doerr and resident gatherer GaryG don’t partake in these early predictions.

The GPHG establishment describes the Jewelry class for watches entered as: “demonstrating extraordinary authority of the craft of adornments and gemsetting. These watches are additionally recognized by the selection of stones included in them.”

Jewellery classification shortlisted looks for the 2018 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (clockwise from upper left): Antoine Preziuso Trillion Tourbillon of Tourbillons, Bulgari Serpenti High Jewelry, Chanel Bouton de Camélia, de Grisogono Cascata, Piaget High Jewelry Cuff Watch Dentelle d’Or, and Van Cleef & Arpels Secret de Coccinelle

JM: Jewelry is the class I am generally new to with regards to strategies and details about what really goes into making the pieces. My insight is exceptionally surface level, so my appraisal as a rule comes carefully from a down to earth viewpoint and emotional individual taste.

Also, since I for one have not taken care of each piece, and adornments pieces are definitely a material encounter as much as a visual encounter, my suppositions might be far away from the individuals who invest sensible energy with the pieces. In any case, I have a few top choices as I’m certain most of all of you do, so I will not feel really awful assigning the ones I adore!

IS: I concur with you, Joshua, adornments pieces are both very hard to decide without ability in the artworks and difficult to precisely qualify without holding and controlling as they are often so material. In any case, in the event that it is uninformed assessment you need, I’m glad to oblige.

MG: One of my untouched most loved classes of the GPHG: the adornments watches! It might sound clever, yet before I learned at the GIA (Gemological Institute of America), I didn’t need to have anything to do with precious stones on watches. In any case, my courses there gave me a deep enthusiasm for this entirely complicated art.

Adding jewels and different gemstones to a watch isn’t excessively complicated, yet to do it so that there is collaboration requires dramatically more craftsmanship and ability. The current year’s arrangement is unprecedented, and I have a strong favorite!

Antoine Preziuso Trillion Tourbillon of Tourbillons

JM: It may be amazing that this is the watch with the most complicated mechanical development of the class and I don’t have it in my best three. That comes from the way that while it is exceptionally cool, and the development is a mechanical geek’s fantasy, adding precious stones to a watch that has no requirement for them isn’t what makes the best gems watch of the year. Like different years, or different classifications, this isn’t a watch designed to exhibit the jewels.

Some may think that its astonishing for its procedure, however as a gems watch I feel it misses the mark regarding being something worth celebrating in this category.

Antoine Preziuso Trillion Tourbillon of Tourbillons

AT: This isn’t actually the watch I hope to discover among the offerings in this classification. Its emphasis appears to be more on the horological side, yet it includes a noteworthy cluster of diamonds.

IS: The Antoine Preziuso Trillion Tourbillon of Tourbillons is among the most interesting bits of horological designing I’ve at any point seen. The three tourbillon controllers are totally associated by a triple info (or yield) differential. Understanding how a standard double yield differential (like a vehicle works) would already be able to be a difficult undertaking, a triple simply blows the mind.

That said, regardless of the number of jewels and regardless of how very much set they are, a macho-looking 47 mm breadth case won’t be the best option for some, women preparing for a major night out. I presume it won’t be the best option of the jury.

Antoine Preziuso Trillion Tourbillon of Tourbillons

MG: Antoine, why for heaven’s sake did you call this watch “Trillion Tourbillon of Tourbillons?” It seems like it is the most recent Jacob & Co! It is, be that as it may, an ode to the loaf cut. Preziuso takes this so much that there is not really any exposed metal obvious. A serious accomplishment, of the setter as well as the shaper as this implies that every jewel should be specially cut for its exact area on the watch. Combined with the phenomenal development the term “stunning creation” is a genuine understatement when applied here.

For more data if it’s not too much trouble, visit gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/trillion-tourbillon-tourbillons .

Further perusing:

5 Dazzling Gem-Set Watches For Men From 2018 Ranging From Relatively Discreet To Obvious And Flagrant Before Ending In Full Bling

Antoine Preziuso Tourbillon of Tourbillons: Fractals Meet ‘Origin’

Quick Facts Antoine Preziuso Trillion Tourbillon of Tourbillons

Case: 47 x 14 mm, white gold

Jewels: 3 Top Wesselton G+ lone trillion-cut precious stones pivoting between the tourbillon; 233 imperceptible set G+ roll cut precious stones (24 ct) on case, clasp, crown, and bezel

Development: physically twisted Caliber AFP-TTR-3X with three one-minute tourbillons associated by a triple differential stuff comprising a fourth ten-minute tourbillon carriage; 21,600 vph/3 Hz recurrence, 48-hour power save

Capacities: hours, minutes

Constraint: one novel piece

Cost: 1,200,000 Swiss francs

Chanel Bouton de Camélia

AT: With 86 precious stones adding up to almost two carats this definitely falls into the gems classification. The dial is spotless and neat, and the actual watch is very beautiful.

Chanel Bouton de Camélia

MG: This is the Jewelry classification of the GPHG, and Chanel sends in its most forgettable mystery watch? Indeed, even in its own assortment, there are a lot more grounded designs. Some may appreciate the “understated” look, yet that isn’t what this class is for.

Chanel Bouton de Camélia

JM: In third spot I picked a watch that appears to be a wonderful watch to wear by and large – which is very different to most in this class. The Chanel Bouton de Camélia is a delightful illustration of a mysterious watch that isn’t worried about marching around like an overwhelmed sovereign, however rather takes the situation of a rich woman. The extents are controlled, the settings are dazzling, and the watch feels totally readable, something adornments watches battle with.

It likewise is the most “reasonable” on the rundown at CHF 46,050, coming in CHF 271,000 less than the following least valued piece. While that isn’t modest using any and all means, having a piece that looks that great and is almost an order of magnitude less expensive than comparable pieces is definitely something to be thankful for. Be that as it may, since this is the adornments class and moderateness isn’t the principle driving component, it misses the best position as others have a lot more prominent presentations of splendor. In any case, it’s likely my #1 piece as a genuine wearable watch for a lady (or a trying man).

Chanel Bouton de Camélia

IS: Chanel secret watches are a long-lasting top pick, however while the Bouton de Camélia is a unique design wonderfully executed,  I can’t resist feeling I’ve seen it ordinarily before.

For more data kindly visit gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/bouton-de-camelia .

Quick Facts Chanel Bouton de Camélia

Case: 9.5 x 15 mm, white gold set with 86 splendid cut jewels (1.91 ct)

Development: quartz

Capacities: hours, minutes

Cost: 46,050 Swiss francs

De Grisogono Cascata

AT: That’s a ton of diamonds.

IS: I’m with you, Ashton, that is a ton of jewels! I like the monochrome straightforwardness of mixing case and dial together in what looks not far-removed one major strong hunk of sparkling jewel. I have almost certainly that the diamond setting is commendable, however it’s excessively hard for me to decide from the level pictures provided. I think it is probably going to be more pleasant than it glances in these pictures, however that is only a theory. It’s positively going to draw in those with a propensity for precious stones above all.

De Grisogono Cascata

MG: What would you be able to do with a ton of precious stones? Make a Cascata! De Grisogono gives a masterclass in how a pavé-set piece should look: three-dimensional and with scarcely a piece of metal in sight! De Grisogono utilizes the cut states of the precious stones just as the difference with the snow-setting on the dial. While actually demanding, and very professional, I don’t know whether it is sufficient to win the classification as the innovative methodology is somewhat less then a portion of the competition, however other than that this is just about as great as it gets!

De Grisogono Cascata

JM: De Grisogono makes some stunning adornments pieces, and I have been a devotee of them for some time. The Cascata is a “snowburst” on the wrist and something that would look awesome throughout a colder time of year ball at a frigid stronghold in the Alps. The settings look astounding, and the snow-setting method feels entirely suitable here. Unfortunately, it additionally appears to be exceptionally hard to peruse the time with the cleaned hands and not a single genuine difference in sight, so as a watch it is a piece lacking.

As an adornments piece it is as yet staggering, however I feel in this class it actually needs to have a strong horological point, so I can’t pick this one as a champ this year.

For more data if it’s not too much trouble, visit gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/cascata .

Quick Facts De Grisogono Cascata

Case: 47.3 x 39.1 x 14.5 mm, white gold, bezel with 72 oval-cut precious stones, carries sent with 126 splendid cut jewels

Dial: snow-set with 148 splendid cut precious stones

Development: quartz

Capacities: hours, minutes

Cost: 709,800 Swiss francs

Piaget High Jewelry Cuff Watch Dentelle d’Or

JM: This piece is something that I appreciate on such countless levels, yet I simply don’t care for it in general. The filigree is flawless, and the settings along the delicate scaffolds make the sleeve stun. Yet, surprisingly, the dial of the watch with its mom of-pearl doesn’t feel like it is up to the remainder of the piece. It feels somewhat dated with the combination, and I think an alternate completion, stone, or material might have worked better. I likewise have never been a major aficionado of sleeves and bangles in adornments, principally because of the detachment/inflexibility when they are worn. In the event that something is free I feel it ought to be soft and streaming, not hard and strong. Consequently I simply feel the Piaget High Jewelry Cuff Watch Dentelle d’Or doesn’t have the stuff to be a winner.

Piaget High Jewelry Cuff Watch Dentelle d’Or

MG: A watch for times since quite a while ago passed: this sleeve watch is totally dazzling and makes me long for more rich occasions when this would be worn by wealthy women. The refinement of the design is amazing, and the opal dial fills in as a staggering focus point in this creation. The solitary thing that actually perplexes me is the reason Piaget fits a watch like this with a quartz development. Indeed, I realize that they make their own quartz developments, however with one of the brand’s eminent super slim, manual-wind developments it would have been the complete package!

Piaget High Jewelry Cuff Watch Dentelle d’Or

AT: This is an exquisite watch, and one that has been elegantly executed. The gold “lace” combined with the opal dial truly bring something uncommon. Despite the reality it is vigorously jeweled, I discover it is as yet understated and I trust this to be the year’s winner.

IS: Your ahead of everyone else in my subsequent spot, Ashton! I like the obviously basic polish of the Piaget: for such a show-stopper it doesn’t pompously cause to notice itself. Be that as it may, when you do focus it’s simply amazing! My number-two pick.

For more data if it’s not too much trouble, visit gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/high-gems sleeve watch-dentelle-dor .

Further perusing: Shrouded In Mystery And Fire: Opals In Jaquet Droz And Piaget Timepieces

Quick Facts Piaget High Jewelry Cuff Watch Dentelle D’Or

Case: 27 x 22 x 6.7 mm, pink gold, set with 30 marquise-formed precious stones and 382 splendid cut jewels

Dial: white opal

Development: quartz

Capacities: hours, minutes

Constraint: one remarkable piece

Cost: €337,000 Swiss francs

Bulgari Serpenti High Jewelry

MG: While I love the Bulgari Serpenti assortment and consider it a feature in the realm of the two looks just as adornments, I consider this creation a chaotic situation. It would appear that the designers joined the head and the tail of one model to the body of another. Furthermore, what is with the precious stones on top of the top of the snake? As far as I might be concerned, this is an extraordinary illustration of inconceivable craftsmanship with a design that just doesn’t work.

Bulgari Serpenti High Jewellery

AT: This Bulgari is one crazy looking watch. Because of the great design and out-there appearance I figure it very well may be sprinter up.

IS: The Bulgari Serpenti High Jewelry is more than my second place, Ashton, it’s my pick for the top advance of the platform. One of my singed in-mind early recollections of Baselworld was the first occasion when I dealt with a Bulgari Serpenti, the quality and physicality just overwhelmed me. I needed one (and still do) just to play with.

Because the Serpenti High Jewelry is a model we have seen previously, I’m counting that as a detriment to Bulgari. Notwithstanding, even with those focuses deducted I feel that design is both unique enough and, as Ashton composed, pleasingly crazy enough to be my reasonable pick for the victor of this category.

Bulgari Serpenti High Jewellery

JM: In runner up I needed to go with a piece that I have some knowledge of: the Bulgari Serpenti High Jewelry. This is a watch that has come from a long queue of Serpenti pieces, which are all exceptional in their complexity and nature of development. In the event that this one resembles the predecessor that I invested some energy with, at that point it is ensured to feel absolutely graceful and lavish with delicate and smooth articulation.

The style is definitely not for weak willed, but rather it gets the attention. Shockingly, this is the second most moderate piece in the class, and I would say that it is definitely a decent deal. The most compelling motivation this passes up a great opportunity for the best position in my book is because of style, and keeping in mind that it is magnificent it feels somewhat less wearable than the champ I picked. Be that as it may, I wouldn’t be astonished on the off chance that others couldn’t help contradicting me.

For more data kindly visit gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/serpenti-high-gems .

Further perusing: Bulgari’s Beloved Serpenti: A Brief History

Quick Facts Bulgari Serpenti High Jewelry

Case: 40 x 21 x 17 mm, white gold set with splendid cut precious stones (~24.90 cts) and pink gold arm band set with splendid cut jewels

Dial: white gold dial set with 82 splendid cut precious stones (0.41 ct); “head” decorated with 2 pear-molded emeralds (0.55 ct) and splendid cut jewels

Development: quartz

Capacities: hours, minutes

Constraint: 8 pieces

Cost: 317,000 Swiss francs

Van Cleef & Arpels Secret de Coccinelle

JM: Van Cleef & Arpels is astounding, there is no denying that. Furthermore, the Secret de Coccinelle is only one more illustration of the lovely work that this gems house makes. The slender band set with very numerous emeralds and garnets looks much the same as a delicate blade of grass folding over your arm, while the amazingly shocking ladybug made with onyx, jewels, and secret set rubies creeps along to uncover the watch dial. The ladybug is the most tenderly delightful arrangement of stones I have found in quite a while, and the execution is perfect.

But what takes this piece from the best illustration of adornments to the best gems watch is the epically minuscule and notorious JLC Caliber 101 development inside. You read that right: it is fueled by the littlest and most extraordinary mechanical development on the planet, discovered uniquely in the most select watches and scarcely at any point found in the modern watch world. Anything that utilizes this development is immediately in its very own group as most decide to simply utilize a quartz movement.

And since Jaeger-LeCoultre doesn’t make the 101 aside from extremely specific purposes, having it inside the Secret de Coccinelle is a treat certainly. In the event that you can contend why another piece is more deserving of the title this year, go right ahead, yet it goes down as my top pick of the classification and conceivably of gems watches in the last not many years.

Van Cleef & Arpels Secret de Coccinelle

AT: My, what a pretty ladybird.

IS: The Van Cleef & Arpels Secret de Coccinelle is my number-three pick; I love the abnormal slim leaf shape and the splendid tones. The coccinelle (French for “ladybird”) that hides or uncovers the watch dial sets everything off impeccably. I can without much of a stretch see this on a rich arm at a dressy event.

Van Cleef & Arpels Secret de Coccinelle open and closed

MG: Some different brands ought to be accepting notes as this Van Cleef & Arpels is the means by which you make a mysterious watch! Fun, inventive, and very good quality with sublime execution. Van Cleef & Arpels takes it to the following level, and something that I like is that it doesn’t use (a ton of) jewels to do it.

It particularly presents a defense for the excellence of tsavorite garnets, which are staggering yet could utilize a lift in fame. Another motivation behind why I love this watch is that it additionally includes a stunning mechanical development: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Caliber 101. A homer, a guide to other people, a masterpiece, both actually and regarding design. The Van Cleef & Arpels Secret de Coccinelle is my champ in this category.

For more data if it’s not too much trouble, visit gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/secret-de-coccinelle .

Quick Facts Van Cleef & Arpels Secret de Coccinelle

Case: 8 x 21 x 5.5 mm, yellow, pink, and white gold set with secret set rubies, precious stones, onyx, snow-set emeralds, tsavorites, garnets

Development: manual-winding Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 101, 32-hour power save, 3 Hz/21,600 vph recurrence

Capacities: hours, minutes

Constraint: one remarkable piece

Cost: 1,093,000 Swiss francs

Predicted Winners

Joshua: Van Cleef & Arpels Secret de Coccinelle

Martin: Van Cleef & Arpels Secret de Coccinelle

Ian: Bulgari Serpenti High Jewellery

Ashton: Piaget High Jewelry Cuff Watch Dentelle d’Or

You may likewise enjoy:

Shrouded In Mystery And Fire: Opals In Jaquet Droz And Piaget Timepieces

5 Dazzling Gem-Set Watches For Men From 2018 Ranging From Relatively Discreet To Obvious And Flagrant Before Ending In Full Bling

Antoine Preziuso Tourbillon of Tourbillons: Fractals Meet ‘Beginning’

Bulgari’s Beloved Serpenti: A Brief History