Primary Navigation

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Is A Tourbillon Complicated Enough? | Quill & Pad

Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Is A Tourbillon Complicated Enough? | Quill & Pad

Welcome to the 2020 release of Quill & Pad’s initial Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève forecasts in which the group picks favorites and clarifies why.

The specialists are:

Elizabeth Doerr (ED), prime supporter and editorial manager in-chief

Ian Skellern (IS), prime supporter and specialized director

Joshua Munchow (JM), resident geek writer

GaryG (GG), resident collector

Martin Green (MG), resident gentleman

Bhanu Chopra (BC), resident flieger expert

The GPHG foundation describes the Ladies Complication classification for watches entered as “ladies’ watches that are exceptional as far as their mechanical imagination and complexity. These watches may feature a wide range of exemplary or potentially creative complications and signs (like yearly schedule, ceaseless schedule, condition of time, complex moon stage, advanced or retrograde time show, world time, second time region, or others) and don’t fit the definition of the Ladies and Mechanical Exception categories.”

GPHG 2020 assigned Ladies Complication watches: Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon, Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel, Jacob & Co Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow, Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace, Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon, Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant

GG: I’m very getting a charge out of the current year’s arrangement of finalists in this class! We have tourbillons (which I know are not carefully a complication, but rather I’ll let that slide), automata, music, retrograde time, a retrograde schedule, and in any event, coinciding heart-formed cog wheels. Who said inventiveness and craft were dead in watchmaking?

IS: Whereas contenders for the GPHG Ladies class ought to, as I would like to think, have a focus on every day wearability, the watches in the Ladies Complication classification are for more unique occasions.

I’m somewhat frustrated with a significant number of the assigned watches here as I don’t imagine that the greater part are either complicated enough or creative enough. It shows up from a portion of the watches here that simply a tourbillon (and omnipresent diamonds) is sufficient. To be fair, however, that is more the aftereffect of the GPHG rules for the Ladies classification barring a tourbillon, leaving no decision for brands to enter a beautiful, yet generally straightforward, ladies’ watch with a tourbillon escapement into the Complication category.

ED: And to be fair in that point, however, Ian, there aren’t that numerous ladies’ watches with tourbillons by any means! So their entrances here are justified – regardless of whether, as Gary said and horological custom directs, a tourbillon isn’t a complication since it adds no function.

MG: Especially over the most recent couple of years, I feel that brands release a greater amount of their inventiveness with regards to complicated ladies’ watches. All things considered, I actually find it intriguing that four of the six selected watches in this class feature a tourbillon. While a tourbillon makes a watch development more complex, it’s anything but a complication yet a controlling device. I understand the inspiration for the GPHG to include tourbillons in this classification, yet particularly as a position, the foundation should consider redefining this category.

BC: The Ladies Complication classification offers some noteworthy and creative mechanical complications. Be that as it may, my vote goes to a watch where complication is exhibited in a basic way and there is no deviation from the general style of the watch just to feature specialized prowess.

IS: I’d likewise prefer to state in advance that while I’ve taken care of varieties of a few of the watches here, I haven’t dealt with any of these specific watches, so my suppositions may, or are even liable to, change if/whenever I do have a chance to see them in the metal.

And it merits featuring that while the class is designated “Ladies Complication,” the GPHG rules for these watches express, “ladies’ watches that are surprising as far as their mechanical imagination and complexity.” No notice of “complication,” so by that definition if a tourbillon is considered complex and inventive enough, it would qualify.

JM: Unlike the fundamental Ladies classification, the Ladies Complication class has a driving factor behind the judging: inventiveness and execution of mechanical complications. This permits different things like common sense or flexibility to be neglected in favor of mechanical wonder. Obviously, I will in any case actually pick a more meaningful get together of complications as it likewise features the capacity to focus and provide value.

While the Mechanical Exception classification is in fact the spot for featuring the wildest mechanics, I actually feel that some limitation and intelligent application is important for the Ladies Complication category.

ED: Good idea, Joshua. Simply recollect that last sentence with regards to estimating, please. Watch manufacturers often forget that size and wearing comfort are particularly critical to ladies – all things considered, to me at any rate. However, I question I’m separated from everyone else in that.

Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon

ED: This watch is so unimaginably wearable, reason assembled, flexible in its assortment of varieties, and going from no diamonds to full diamonds as seen here. I likewise love the satiny arm band with its alluring snake scales. There isn’t a lot of I don’t care for about it. I have consistently cherished the inventive Serpenti assortment , and the as of late presented Seduttori with simplified wristband and now the tourbillon take something incredible and make it surprisingly better and more wearable. This new arm band can likewise be traded in for a normal tie – however why anybody would do that is past me. The arm band transforms this watch into jewelry.

A pair in the hand: Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillons in white and pink gold variations

As for the “complication” viewpoint – while we here comprehensively concur that a tourbillon isn’t a complication in the exacting horological sense, this class as a matter of course is the place where the feminine tourbillons land. So I find their incorporation to be perfectly justified. Furthermore, the Bulgari is my undisputed top choice here on the grounds that its little reason fabricated tourbillon adds a demonstration of specialized ability essential to both the classification and myself, and the perfect extents of its size are ideal for a comfortable fit on a lady’s wrist. At the point when I gave this watch a shot during LVMH Watch Week in Dubai, I scarcely enrolled it on my wrist, so comfortable it was.

MG: While I figure Bulgari worked really hard with the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon, fitting it with the littlest development with a flying tourbillon as of now accessible on the lookout, I can’t pick it to win as a result of the comment I made previously. Nonetheless, I believe that the jury will liberally neglect this fact. Else, it would be sorry scraps in any case, and that the Bulgari has a fantastic opportunity to guarantee triumph in this classification. Given the development and execution of the general piece, I can’t fault them. For me, this watch was one of the features of the LVMH Watch Week in Dubai recently. It is rich without being antiquated and generally proportional. An incredible route for the brand to sustain its Serpenti adventure .

JM: Bulgari has a background marked by giving brilliant stylish and mechanical heading for the two people’s watches, and the Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon is another incredible illustration of this capacity. Outside of the complex decisions and magnificent craftsmanship with the jeweling and goldsmithing on this watch, the tourbillon is fantastic with a sapphire precious stone extension and the littlest tourbillon size on the market.

I feel that a many individuals will adore this watch for a multitude of reasons, and I wouldn”t fault them. All things being equal, I don’t think it is the best illustration of a complicated ladies watch in the class. So while it is a stylish favorite, it misses the best position for me by coming up short on any genuine complication by the widely acknowledged norm of the word.

Full jewel set Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon in white gold

GG: Second on my rundown is the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon with its minuscule, snake head-molded tourbillon development. The jewel wristband form appears to be excessive maybe, however both the red gold and white gold tie adaptations appear to be very striking, at any rate in pictures, and I give Bulgari full focuses for making a tiny, non-round tourbillon development only for this piece.

ED: You’d be astounded, Gary, exactly how relaxed the arm band comes across because of its proportionate measurements. It doesn’t overwhelm at all. What’s more, given the decision, I would prefer it on the wristband – which demonstrates that (for me at any rate) it’s not very over the top.

BC: My victor is Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon. Bulgari’s watch department continues to push specialized and design components consistently. The Serpenti Seduttori is a splendidly designed watch, and the expansion of the tourbillon fits so normally into the general style of the bejeweled watch.

IS: I love the state of the Bulgari Serpenti, the 34 mm size makes for an entirely wearable watch, and the full precious stone snow setting of the dial, case, wristband, and fasten is absolutely attractive yet shockingly non-pompous. The Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon is a watch that should effectively fit at any dressy event. It’s a fantastic top of the line ladies’ watch and maybe the prettiest watch here, anyway a tourbillon simply isn’t a sufficient complication, or innovatively complex, for me to consider it a winner.

Further reading: Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon: Precious Metal, Precious Stones, Precious Movement

Bulgari’s Beloved Serpenti: A Brief History

LVMH Watch Week 2020: A Round Table Discussion Of A New-Generation Group Fair And A Photofest Of New Watches From Zenith, Hublot And Bulgari

Quick Facts Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon

Case: 34 x 8.9 mm, white gold, set with an aggregate of 558 diamonds (7.89 ct) on case, bezel, dial and arm band

Development: manual breeze Caliber BVL150 with one-minute tourbillon with sapphire precious stone extension, power save 40 hours, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency

Functions: hours, minutes

Cost: €165,000/CHF 165,000

Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel

GG: The Charles Girardier Tourbillon Mystérieuse is properly named for me as it is a serious secret. It’s a tourbillon watch with an odd turning thingy at 12 o’clock as the brand’s initials; an extremely brief video on the GPHG site of the component in different positions doesn’t provide any confidence that it’s a useful expansion. The development is supposed to be provided by the “Immortal manufacture,” an association that I could find no information about despite a protracted online pursuit. Furthermore, a general inquiry recommends that there might be nobody out there who has really seen one of these pieces. In any case, we find it among the finalists for a prize this year.

Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel

ED: Precisely the point I was going to make, Gary! Recall when Beauregard entered the Dahlia in the 2018 release of the GPHG ? None of us realized that watch or the brand by the same token. Be that as it may, it was casted a ballot into the final round on the strength of the photograph and description provided. When passing judgment on day came, I was especially eager to deal with that part, and for reasons unknown, my energy was justified: it was an outright shocker of a wristwatch. Afterward, I became more acquainted with Alexandre Beauregard and understand the foundation of both brand and watch.

My highlight those comments are twofold: 1) it ought to be an exercise to brands, particularly new or little brands, to accomplish their press work steadily preceding an occasion, for example, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève and become somewhat better known; and 2) however much we’d prefer to bypass what we don’t know in our minuscule watch industry, some of the time it merits investigating. Like you, my first nature was to ignore this watch as searches have turned up nothing and I have no clue about who is behind this, yet recollecting my involvement in Beauregard is sufficient for me to hold my tongue for now and expectation that I get an opportunity to deal with this watch in the near future. The description and photographs of it are interesting.

MG: I have never understood the need to have a monogram on a thing. I’m perfectly fit for knowing my name or identifying my own property. If I can’t do that any longer, I am prepared for an elderly consideration home, where by and large they put your name on what is yours. So the beguiling “monogram” complication is somewhat lost on me. I’m more taken by the jewel set tourbillon confine and the flawlessly executed dial. Given the competition in this classification, I question if it is sufficient for the success, though.

Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel

JM: This watch is a terrific illustration of mechanical innovativeness and playfulness finding its way into a watch designed considering ladies. Demonstrating a “baffling” signature on the dial, the Tourbillon Signature Mysterieuse unmistakably satisfies its name. I love the idea and it’s reasonable the execution is first rate with a genuine haute horlogerie development. However, I likewise don’t see a great deal of significant worth added (in a complication sense) with the machine signature. It doesn’t provide any additional information past time so I can’t properly pick it to win the category.

IS: The Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel is pleasantly measured at 37 mm, a flying tourbillon is more complicated than a standard tourbillon, and the turning strange signature circles (I believe it’s both a stretch and wrong to describe them as a machine) adds extra active interest to that all around plentifully provided by the pivoting jewel set flying tourbillon confine. Furthermore, I especially like the engraved, silver paillon-set, stove fired, finish dial. This is an amazingly gorgeous watch with outwardly intriguing complications, however I don’t feel that it’s complicated enough to win this category.

Quick Facts Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse Fleur de Sel

Case: 37 x 11.8 mm, white gold, bezel set with 0.8 ct diamonds

Dial: high-fire lacquer with paillons

Development: programmed Caliber CG1809 (Timeless manufacture) with one-minute flying tourbillon and fringe rotor, 46-hour power save, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency

Functions: hours, minutes; turning circles with logo

Cost: 90,000 Swiss francs

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow

ED: An incredibly comparative form of this watch called Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin set with pink sapphires rather than rainbow-hued sapphires was gone into the 2019 Ladies Complication classification and made it through to the final round. While the diamond selection and setting is exceptional on both of these watches, the really cosmic extents of this case – 21 mm in height!!!! – make it for all intents and purposes unwearable. I felt that path about this watch a year ago, I actually feel that route about it now.

However, as an objet d’art, it is overwhelming, fascinating, and essentially beautiful. In fact, the current year’s “rainbow” sapphires make it much more interesting to me.

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow

GG: I ridiculously needed to put the Jacob & Co. watch higher on the rundown, yet it’s a rainbow-shaded redo of a year ago’s violet-toned Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin observe so I wrecked it for that reason.

JM: This watch is the best demonstration of why this classification should be part into two more unequivocal classifications: to be specific, Ladies Complication and Ladies Mechanical Exception. This development and three-dimensional mechanical expressive dance is outwardly superb and demonstrates complex mechanics infrequently seen on a ladies’ watch. In any case, it likewise never really add usable information to the wearer, the functional purpose of a complication, thus from my viewpoint it fails at the objective of a complicated watch. It has no equivalent in the class, however it likewise is all-show and off limits, which holds it back from winning in my mind.

Jacob & Co. Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow

IS: The Jacob & Co. Astronomia is an electrifying complication, and the Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow seems as though a LSD-increased amusement park for the wrist. With its triple-hub tourbillon and colorful jewel set pivoting flowers and counter-turning levels, this is by a wide margin the most complicated watch in this field by a wide margin.

At 42.5 mm, it’s huge, however not very enormous for some ladies to wear. Furthermore, in spite of the fact that its 21 mm stature implies that it’s probably not going to sneak by cuffs, it is anything but a watch you would need to conceal in any case. It’s far excessively ridiculous for my taste, however I love it! I feel that the Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow is a strong contender to win this category.

MG: Always depend on Jacob & Co. to deliver a fun piece! I believe that it has done extremely well in making the Astronomia more wearable, in any event, for a woman. If you don’t mind the tallness, obviously. In functional terms, the complications don’t do a lot, yet particularly with the disco blast of different hued gemstones is it a particularly fun piece. I could see this watch win the class in light of it.

Further reading: Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Unanimous!

Quick Facts Jacob & Co. Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow

Case: 42.5 x 21 mm, pink gold with shaded sapphires

Development: physically twisted skeletonized Caliber JCAM31 with one-minute flying triple-hub tourbillon, power save 48 hours; 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, skeletonized

Functions: hours, minutes, liveliness with turning flowers

Limit: 101 pieces

Cost: 390,000 Swiss francs

Comment: 7.63 all out gemstone carat weight, including a 288-facet Jacob-cut green tsavorite

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace

MG: Jacob & Co doesn’t have the patent on fun ladies’ watches, however, as the Masterpiece Embrace competes splendidly with two heart-formed pinion wheels. It is fairly gimmicky, however when I saw this watch during Geneva Watch Days I couldn’t help yet focus on it. It is such a quieting and entrancing movement, particularly with a deep blue aventurine dial as a background. Truly, it is an incredible test at first to tell the specific date on the retrograde date complication, albeit the little dabs help more than you suspect. Over the date, it says “I love you a little, a great deal, madly!” in French, demonstrating again that totally everything sounds better in this language. For me, the victor of this category.

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace

JM: The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace accomplishes something the wide range of various watches in this classification do: provide a fascinating visual artful dance for mechanical-minded individuals to follow. The heart-formed pinion wheels are a cunning and exact piece of designing that Maurice Lacroix has actualized in different manners in the past to incredible achievement. Yet, if that was this watch did it would fall shy of really being a complicated watch. It likewise features a retrograde date system, which, while being a second fascinating bit of designing generally found more in men’s watches, is additionally a useful complication, something that in fact no other watch in this class can promise to have.

For that reason, if the jury individuals were to be fanatics about useful complications that provide additional information past fundamental time, this is the solitary piece that can even in fact win. I have a feeling that the jury will be a smidgen more liberal in its settling, so I will not foresee this one to win, however if I am to be that guy, it is the one in particular that should win out of the preselected looks as it is the lone watch that shows additional information for the wearer.

IS: The Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace is another alluring ladies’ watch here that has been done an insult by (to utilize a boxing similarity) being knock up into a weight class in which it can’t compete. The aventurine dial looks extraordinary and I’m a fan of the retrograde date; notwithstanding, while the keenly fitting turning hearts of the little seconds may look complicated, I don’t think everything includes enough to be a genuine contender.

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace

GG: Third for me is the Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace with its lattice hearts against an aventurine foundation and furthermore featuring an inconspicuous retrograde date sign. The sentimental engraving on the dial is taken straightforwardly from the Christophe Claret Margot watch of a few seasons prior, which decreased my happiness regarding the watch fairly. In any case, generally it appeared to be thoroughly examined and is decently valued, too.

ED: Maurice Lacroix, as Joshua called attention to in Round, Schmround! The Maurice Lacroix Square Wheel Cube , accomplishes such a great deal with gears nowadays. The two hearts in an interminable turning embrace is a reevaluation of the brand’s square wheel idea and a captivating utilization of the technology.

At 40 x 13 mm, it is thick for a lady’s wrist, however it must be as the lattice hearts and retrograde date are modules on top of the Sellita base development. Whenever I finally got the opportunity to give this watch a shot recently, I was astounded at how well it fit despite its fairly masterful size. The ties and clasps at this brand are very carefully conceived, as are most things that this wonderful company does.

I am a sucker for both retrograde functions and aventurine dials, and it is refreshing to see a brand utilize this beautifying material without likewise adding diamonds. The cost of this treated steel watch is very refreshing as well. It is my sprinter up in this category.

Further reading: Round, Schmround! The Maurice Lacroix Square Wheel Cube

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace: Embracing The Complexities Of Love

Quick Facts Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace

Case: 40 x 13 mm, tempered steel

Dial: aventurine with silver powder cushion printing

Development: programmed Caliber ML258 (Sellita SW200 base), 36-hour power save, 28,800 vph/4 Hz frequency

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds; retrograde date

Cost: 6,900 Swiss francs

Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon

MG: Looking at the GPHG selections is fairly a test when a few watches are, fundamentally, not that new, simply another configuration of an older model. On account of this Altiplano Tourbillon, while in fact great, I have never become accustomed to the dial plan. It feels eccentric without a requirement for it, and I find the design on the mother-of-pearl dial likewise not tempting enough to occupy me from this fact. As this Piaget likewise has nothing more to bring to the table than a tourbillon, it is for me not the champ in this category.

Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon

BC: My next in line position goes to the Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon. It has been fun to watch the competition among Piaget and Bulgari for the world’s most slender developments with different complications. Here Piaget has executed a tourbillon complication into an all around thin Altiplano case, and I truly like the off-focused dial and tourbillon cage!

IS: While the Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon has a flying tourbillon, the genuine complication here for me is that it’s a super slight watch, which the brand is famous for. The development is just 4.6 mm in stature, yet come on, Piaget, if one of your watches’ principle attractions is its smooth slenderness, why not provide a photograph from the side so we can value that fact?

This Altiplano Tourbillon would be a solid contender for me if there was a “Somewhat Complicated” Ladies class. I consider super slim to be a genuine complication (albeit, similar to a tourbillon, it doesn’t actually qualify as a complication), however that is as yet not exactly sufficient for me here. All things considered, it’s extremely appealing and seems to be an entirely wearable watch in a wide scope of events, and I give it good grades for that.

Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon

JM: The Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon is a fantastic watch with a clean and precisely amazing super dainty tourbillon, exhibiting Piaget’s ability in slight mechanics. However, similar to I’ve said for different watches, and something I need to hold as significant for this classification, a tourbillon isn’t sufficient to win the Ladies Complication classification as it doesn’t provide any new information or, for some, even include as a complication in itself. Marvelous watch, not the best “complicated” ladies’ watch except if that word doesn’t mean what it should.

ED: Piaget selected to give the flying tourbillon liberal space to sparkle against this generally gleaming dial by making the subdial for the hours and minutes a similar breadth as the tourbillon cutaway, giving the watch a specific fashion awareness that is just upgraded by its extraordinary slimness: Caliber 670P comes in at 4.6 mm in stature! In any case, with so numerous Piaget Altiplano Tourbillons presented for this present year, it feels significantly less extraordinary than it ought to somehow.

GG: There’s literally nothing amiss with the Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon, however neither does it energize. The look to me is very good old and not even the ultra-slenderness of the tourbillon development could overcome that for me.

Further reading: 3 New Tourbillons From Watches & Wonders 2020: A Pursuit Of Personal Passion

Quick Facts Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon

Case: 38 x 7.35 mm, pink gold, bezel set with 64 splendid cut diamonds (1.09 ct)

Dial: engraved mother-of-pearl

Development: manual winding Caliber 670P with one-minute flying tourbillon, 48-hour power save, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency

Functions: hours, minutes

Limit: 88 pieces

Cost: 114,000 Swiss francs

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant

ED: Van Cleef & Arpels proceeds with its Poetic Complications with a bunch of three “melodic ballet performer” watches enlivened by a 1960s three-section expressive dance called Jewels by choreographer George Balanchine, which he made after gathering Claude Arpels. Every one of the three watches addresses one of the current schools of expressive dance – French, Russian, and American – which is uncovered by the decision of valuable stones (the other two are set with rubies and emeralds). The reason is charming and knowing Van Cleef & Arpels the execution is likely flawless.

However – and this is an enormous notwithstanding – this watch is honored with completely unwearable estimating for females. So despite its outrageous playfulness and genuine mechanical cleaves, I should ignore it here.

The shade opens on the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant and the artful dance begins

IS: With its Poetic Complications assortment, Van Cleef & Arpels fundamentally developed the class of precisely genuine ladies’ watches, and it is still head and shoulders above the vast majority of the competition. VC&A doesn’t just place existing complications into ladies’ watches, its complications are both beautiful and recount stories. In these COVD-19 days of confined travel and restricted social events, the Ballerine Musicale Diamant offers a night out at the expressive dance without going out. Albeit that would be a disgrace (and selfish) as it deserves a bigger audience.

But to win the Ladies Complication class a watch has to bring to the table more than passionate verse and a night at the Bolshoi – and the Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant does exactly that: just as the moving ballet performer robots, we have retrograde hours, retrograde minutes, and music! What’s more, it’s the combined bells and music box giving the melodic artful dance topic tune that drives me to pick the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant as my champ of the 2020 GPHG Ladies Complication category.

GG: Top of my rundown among this gathering is the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant. An unpretentious retrograde time sign curves across the highest point of the proscenium of our theater, and upon incitation the blind opens to uncover ballet dancers moving to music from the expressive dance provided by a combination of bells rings and a music box. It’s quite difficult to contend with that combination, I’d say! The watch is both huge in width and thick, however as an assertion piece that is additionally in fact fascinating this one is a victor in my book.

My just worry, likewise with a few of the other entered watches, is whether a working model will be accessible for passing judgment on given the expressed September 2020 delivery date. We will see!

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant

MG: What a staggering piece is this Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant! The jewel setting combined with the wonderful complication make it a watch that assuredly sticks out. Notwithstanding, this isn’t the solitary way it stands apart as it completely disqualifies itself by being an astounding 44.5 mm in width. Combine this with a tallness of 14.45 mm, and this watch just an overdose of something that is otherwise good. Given its complication, it is truly understandable that Van Cleef & Arpels needed the space to get it going. As it is in any event, for most of men effectively a curiously large watch, it is basically too enormous as I would like to think to bring home the prize in the Ladies’ Complication category.

ED: And right you are, Martin! As an item, similar to the Jacob & Co, this watch is fun. As a watch or even gems piece it would be excessively lumbering to really wear. My theory is that it is intended to be a safe sovereign anyway.

JM: This is the watch I foresee to be the champ and it additionally kind of fails in my necessity of really adding information for the wearer. However, given what else it does, I believe that will be disregarded and it will take the prize this year. The Ballerine Musicale Diamant is a retrograde hours and retrograde minutes watch with a little robot liveliness and a melodic system that plays a tune on demand.

Unlike different pieces, the topical purposes behind including the complex systems bode well with the combination of robots and melodic instruments. Despite the fact that this watch comes up short on a complication that grants information it confers insight, and that is important also. It likewise bodes well inside its own reference frame: the machine and music component are essential for an entire and not simply an anomaly added for the purpose of complexity. Van Cleef & Arpels is notable for first class mechanical activitys attached to time shows and different features, so it can likewise be safely expected that this piece follows in those footsteps.

IS: It merits rehashing Joshua that the first sentence of the classification rules state: ” . . . ladies’ watches that are noteworthy as far as their mechanical inventiveness and complexity.” It doesn’t really say “complication.”

BC: My third spot goes to the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant. This brand has perfected the craft of narrating in a mechanical watch.

Quick Facts Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant

Case: 44.5 x 14.45 mm, white gold, bezel, case, dial and clasp set with splendid cut diamonds (7.92 ct)

Dial: smaller than expected artistic creation, set with diamonds

Development: manual winding type, 52-hour power hold, 3 Hz/21,600 vph frequency

Functions: retrograde hours, retrograde minutes; ballet performer robot, on-demand chimes and music box music

Cost: 438,000 Swiss francs

For more information, if it’s not too much trouble, visit www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/gphg-2020/selected watches#2020_COMPLICATION_DAME .

Predicted Winners

Elizabeth: Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon

Bhanu: Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon

Ian: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant

Joshua: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant

Gary: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant

Martin: Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace

You may likewise enjoy:

Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Jeté De Diamants Et Saphirs: Just A Splash Of Flash

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace: Embracing The Complexities Of Love

Our Predictions In The Ladies Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): A Sprinkling Of Jewels, A Mismatched Date, And The Ever-Raging Debate On Quartz

Complete List And Photos Of All Shortlisted Watches In The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)

Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon: Precious Metal, Precious Stones, Precious Movement

The Vacheron Constantin Heures Créatives Heure Audacieuse Watch I Wore To Watchmaking’s Most Glamorous Night, The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)