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Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): All 6 Are Potential Winners But Our Panelists Ruthlessly Whittle Them Down | Quill & Pad

Our Predictions In The Men’s Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): All 6 Are Potential Winners But Our Panelists Ruthlessly Whittle Them Down | Quill & Pad

Welcome to the 2020 release of Quill & Pad’s initial Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève predictions in which the group picks favorites and explains why.

The panelists are:

Elizabeth Doerr (ED), prime supporter and manager in-chief

Ian Skellern (IS), prime supporter and specialized director

Joshua Munchow (JM), resident geek writer

GaryG (GG), resident collector

Martin Green (MG), resident gentleman

The GPHG establishment describes the Men’s classification for watches entered as “comprising the accompanying indications just: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases; might be decorated with a most extreme five-carat gemsetting.”

GG: Another pleasant selection of watches! I had the advantage of declaring the champ of this classification – the Voutilainen 28 Ti – last year in front of an audience in Geneva, and this time around we have another Voutilainen and five other very pleasing pieces to consider.

One watch that missed out on the gathering and that I think deserves mention is the Kikuchi Nakagawa Murakumo , a decidedly classical piece that stretches the boundaries of watchmaking show by boasting a dark polished case and clasp. This may very well be the one watch I’d purchase yet not wear – envision the first scratch! Perhaps when the Jury convenes in November, they will consider this one for the Audacity prize as for me it positively merits that term.

ED: Thanks for bringing that watch up, Gary: as I previously said in the discussion on the Ladies Complication classification , these little brands need to improve occupation of stretching out beyond the competition to get seen – and this was an especially crowded class! I have not seen the Murakumo in the metal, however since you bring it up again I truly wish I had!

I was disappointed that the Arnold & Son Nebula 38 in steel didn’t endure to the last round. I discover this watch to be one of our industry’s hidden gems in quality, inventiveness, and cost. Essential and deserving for me would also have been the Garrick S3 and the Schwarz Etienne Roma Synergy with a dial by Kari Voutilainen’s Comblémine manufacturing plant, however I have sadly not gotten the opportunity to deal with the latter.

GPHG 2020 selected Men’s watches: Bulgari Octo Finissimo S, De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky, Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Green, Petermann Bédat Seconde Morte, Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium Edition, Voutilainen 28SC

IS: WOW! I can’t recall any year wherein I felt that each and every one of the six selected watches in the GPHG Men’s classification ticked each of the three of the accompanying boxes:

1. It very well may be a merited victor.

2. I can easily see myself deciding in favor of it as the victor.

3. On the off chance that I could manage the cost of it, I would get it and wear it with happiness and pride.

This is the most troublesome gathering of men’s watches I’ve at any point needed to assess and pass judgment. Furthermore, the way that I’ve either taken care of most of these watches or variations of them doesn’t make it any easier; on the off chance that anything it makes it harder as I probably am aware just how great they truly are. Whichever one of these watches goes on to deservedly win in on the 12th of November, it will feature that 2020 is a vintage year for men’s watches. Coronavirus be damned!

And it merits bringing up that over the six designated watches in the Men’s class, just one, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Blue Dial, is from a mainstream brand. The rest are from independents and store brands. As an unabashed fan and supporter of the indies, I’m pleased at their success, yet it does give me some worry that the mainstream brands that are the establishment for the entire industry are so inadequately represented.

My standards for the men’s classification is simple: an excellent, moderately simple wristwatch that is suitable as an every day wearer whether wearing a suit or jeans.

MG: Every year this is the class wherein it is the most hard to decide who should be the victor. This year it is the same as I can see every one of the six winning.

JM: As I have stated in each previous year, the Men’s class is one of the toughest to judge simply because there truly isn’t any getting sorted out standard for the watches aside from being focused toward male wearers. Fortunately, this year there is an assortment that feels cohesive in its goal, as all the watches are similar enough in scope that I feel we can really pass judgment on them against each other.

There aren’t any emotional outliers and every one doesn’t attempt to resist the established norm too much. Subsequently, I believe I can compare styles, wearability, and generally craftsmanship in an offer to suss out the best Men’s watch. In any case, the field is so fantastic that it will probably come down to subjective preferences to determine the winner.

ED: Indeed!

Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Blue Dial

MG: This Octo Finissimo is the ideal illustration of a watch where a case material makes a distinction. While titanium is pleasant, I lean toward this stainless steel version. It gives the watch somewhat more heave on the wrist and the metal looks lighter in shading. Combined with the blue dial it is the ideal casual watch that can go just as easy with a suit, making it an extraordinary all-rounder – even more so because it comes with such a stunning movement!

Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Blue Dial

JM: A never-ending top choice, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has won, in some structure or another, three times in as numerous years, remembering the Men’s classification for 2017 , so it has somewhat of an objective on its back in this class – and in light of current circumstances. As a super light (however now heavier in steel) and distinctive watch with one of the thinnest programmed movements at any point made, it genuinely is an awesome watch. However, that isn’t sufficient all alone to win, and since we’ve seen a great deal of GPHG success for this esthetic in the new past, I’m not sure on the off chance that it can hold off the challengers.

What it does have making it work is an incentive as it is the most accessible piece here by a wide edge, and it’s just one of three pieces that isn’t essential for a restricted version, which means it is considerably more liable to be both probably the best man watches and most accessible as well.

The competition is still stiff, and I will put it as my next in line should my victor miss out on the gesture from the judges.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Blue Dial

ED: I do understand everybody’s fascination with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo line. It is a famously wearable watch with a cool design that is just far enough off the standard to can possibly become its own thing like Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak. Notwithstanding, I feel that we’ve seen each case material and shading variety went into this competition. I’m not resenting Bulgari that using any and all means! It’s just that I don’t think this is distinctive enough from the previous versions to warrant another success, and I question any jury would necessarily feel in an unexpected way. In spite of the fact that I might be surprised!

IS: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo is one of my #1 watches and the dispatch titanium version was an unsurprising victor as best Men’s watch at the 2017 GPHG . It merits featuring that for me perhaps the most impressive features of this stunning super slight programmed watch (6.4 mm cased!) is its 60-hour power reserve.

The blue-dial Octo Finissimo Automatic S is significantly more attractive than the first, and it would easily be a strong contender as the champ of this class. Notwithstanding, I can’t resist the urge to feel that against such strong competition here, it’s not in fact extraordinary enough from its 2017 prize-winning brother.

Further reading: Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic: Enchanting Ultra-Thin In Titanium, Gold, Ceramic And Now In Steel

Geneva Watch Days 2020 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked, What We Didn’t Like, And What We’d Buy From The Watches Presented At This COVID-19-Friendly Fair (Warning: Photo Fest!)

LVMH Watch Week 2020: A Round Table Discussion Of A New-Generation Group Fair And A Photofest Of New Watches From Zenith, Hublot And Bulgari

What We Liked And What We Didn’t Like At The 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, Plus How Well Our Panel’s Forecasts Did

Quick Facts Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Blue Dial

Case: 40 x 6.4 mm, stainless steel, 100 m water resistance

Movement: programmed Caliber BVL 138, 2.23 mm stature, 36.6 mm breadth, 21,600 vph/3 Hz recurrence, 60-hour power reserve

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds

Cost: $13,900/CHF 11,500

De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky

IS: Disclaimer: I have a strong bias for the De Bethune DB28 and I own one (see De Bethune DB28: How I Launched It, Why I Bought It, And Why It’s The Perfect ‘One Watch’) . Yet, as biased as I am in the DB28’s courtesy, it previously won the GPHG’s prize for best men’s watch in 2011 and, as with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Blue Dial, I feel it takes in excess of a beautiful blue dial to warrant the same model winning again.

De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky

Happily however, the DB28XP Starry Sky does have significantly more than that spectacular dial making it work (see 3 Brand-New De Bethune DB28s To Celebrate 10 Years Of This Sensational, Now Ultra-Thin Watch With Floating Lugs ). The movement, while still holding the basic twofold barrel, silicon balance wheel engineering of the first, is new: the force reserve jumps 20% from 5 to 6 days, and the thickness drops 15% from 4.5 to 3.8 mm. The case thickness drops an amazing 40 percent from 11.4 to just 7.2 mm. Thanks to those skimming lugs and light titanium case, the world’s most comfortable wrist-wrapping watch has just taken a quantum jump in comfort, looks, and performance.

The DB28 is what might be compared to the Porsche 911: the new model looks superficially like the old, however every part has been either improved or supplanted. And afterward there’s that sensational dial! The De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky is my tied champ for best Men’s watch 2020.

Note to De Bethune: I’m sure that you had valid justifications to enter the DB28XP Starry Sky instead of the DB28XP, yet historically the Men’s classification has been won by less obviously “flashy” watches and I figure the DB28XP would have been a much stronger contender here.

ED: Luckily for me this watch wears more like a unisex watch than a men’s watch because of the changes you just mentioned, Ian. It is an absolute stunner both on and off the wrist.

Dial of the De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky

MG: With the DB28XP Starry Sky De Bethune is doing what it does best: this delightful watch is uncommon however on the safe side of being unconventional. The lone thing that I am not very partial to from a personal perspective is the equilibrium wheel displayed on the dial side. Not just because then you continue to need to clarify that it’s anything but a tourbillon, yet in addition because it interferes with the stunning dial whereupon you can have your personal starry sky made by small white gold pins put with extraordinary precision.

JM: Like the Bulgari, the DB28XP Starry Sky is non-restricted, which allows it to be considerably more widely embraced by the market, however with a sticker price seven times the Bulgari it definitely is substantially more exclusive just by positioning. At this point everybody should realize that I worship De Bethune and would fantasy about claiming basically any watch from the brand, and this watch is no exception.

The combination of the Starry Sky dial with the DB28 case, blended in with the microlight etching on the dial, makes for a fabulous 10th anniversary piece for the DB28 assortment. My fundamental hesitation in picking this one to win is styling, which only one out of every odd jury part will revere as I do. Most will concur that this De Bethune is marvelous, however classic styling still reigns supreme in the industry and I dread the De Bethune will lose this classification simply because of the more space-age design. The watch is supremely wearable, however the wilder nature may detract from being the best Men’s watch.

ED: And here’s the place where my assessment differs from yours, Joshua. In De Bethune terms this watch is definitely more classic looking than other DB28 variations as the usually visible delta connect (which gives it a decided science-fiction twisted) is covered by the superb blued titanium dial with white gold “stars.” Sure, the hands are irregular, however that provides character. Also, I imagine that individuals are presently fairly used to seeing exposed balances on modern watches. My inclination is that this watch’s styling won’t be the detracting element – rather the way that it is in fact a minor departure from a watch that has brought home this prize once effectively (2011).

Nonetheless, this watch and the Bulgari Octo Finissimo were indeed casted a ballot into the last round despite having both brought home this prize in the past and despite an incredibly enormous field for the Academy to choose from. That speaks to the absolute quality and lasting fascination in these models. Also, despite it having just won once, I tap the DB28XP Starry Sky as my champ in this category.

Further reading: 3 Brand-New De Bethune DB28s To Celebrate 10 Years Of This Sensational, Now Ultra-Thin Watch With Floating Lugs

Quick Facts De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky

Case: 43 x 7.2 mm, titanium; drifting lugs

Movement: physically twisted Caliber DB2115v6 with blued titanium escape wheel with white gold weights, 6-day power reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph recurrence, Triple Pare-Chute shock security with Incabloc

Functions: hours, minutes

Value: CHF 72,000 barring VAT

Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Green

JM: Laurent Ferrier is a classic brand that frequently flies under the radar without a lot pageantry and circumstance, and this watch is an incredible model. The totally gorgeous green opaline dial contrasted with the yellow numerals is reminiscent of a historic football pitch or even the grass courts at Wimbledon, and keeping in mind that subdued, is indeed something difficult to disregard while considering Men’s watches.

Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Green

JM: The fresh out of the plastic new physically twisted Laurent Ferrier type is spotless and totally executed, giving a magnificent base to the watch. To finish everything off, the case is constructed from polished titanium and has a 80-hour power reserve, making for a versatile watch. In my eyes it is elusive issue with this watch regardless of what gatherer you are conversing with. Plus, this watch marks the 10th anniversary of the brand, which adds a little oomph to the piece. Out of the relative multitude of timepieces in this class, the incentive of this piece, and given what has a new history of winning (ahem, Voutilainen), I’m foreseeing a success for Laurent Ferrier this year as the best all-around Men’s watch.

IS: As I mentioned prior, I’m searching for an extraordinary, generally simple wristwatch suitable as an every day wearer whether wearing a suit or jeans and the Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Green is just that. Rich 40 mm titanium case, wonderful new in-house movement, and inclination opaline dial that is just the correct equilibrium of being distinctive yet not over-driving, this Laurent Ferrier Classic is the encapsulation of an extraordinary Men’s watch. In one more year with slightly more vulnerable competition I could easily see the Classic Origin Green taking the best position in this classification, however for me this is not its year.

MG: While a watch in green can usually easily hoist my pulse, this one does not accomplish that. It is perhaps the tint that Laurent Ferrier picked, yet I locate its other dial colors undeniably really enthralling. As I am also a sucker for miniature rotor movements, the manual breeze movement is not doing much for me all things considered. Sure, it is all around made and stunning for what it is, however to me it is simply excessively plain to genuinely follow through on its potential.

ED: I think I must concur with you on each one of those counts, Martin. The dim green is just not doing it for me, causing the watch to seem plain instead of the usual treat I have come to anticipate from this shop brand, also a previous victor in this classification. We have seen different watches by Laurent Ferrier over the course of the years with similar layouts to the dials that have seemed so a lot more splendid and more alive. It also doesn’t help that we never got an opportunity to see this one in the metal, I’m sure.

Quick Facts Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Green

Case: 40 x 10.7 mm, titanium

Movement: physically twisted Caliber LF 116.01 with free-sprung balance, 80-hour power reserve; 3 Hz/21,000 vph recurrence

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds

Impediment: 30 pieces

Cost: 30,700 Swiss francs

Petermann Bédat Dead Beat Second

MG: Talk about a grand slam! A proportional watch with a restrained dial that shows some promise of the stunning movement behind it. That movement is following through on its promises thus substantially more. Is it more pleasant to see than the dial side? No, yet that is simply because the design on the facade of the watch is absolutely perfect. Notwithstanding, not exclusively is the finish of the movement scarily great, it also comes with the pair’s interpretation of the Gafner deadbeat second system, transforming this watch into serious haute horlogerie and my champ in this category.

Petermann Bédat Seconde Morte

JM: Now this is a cool watch that is somewhat not normal for different competitors as the brand is new, founded by two youthful watchmakers and this is the debut watch. Worked around the idea of a deadbeat mechanism designed by Robert Gafner, an educator at the watchmaking school of La Chaux-de-Fonds during the 1940s, the Dead Beat Second is a shining illustration of young passion and a focus on making an extremely perfect movement from scratch.

The dial has been redesigned from the model (a major improvement) and gives a glimpse into the faultless movement underneath. Type 171 is awesome and has a visually impressive deadbeat seconds mechanism raised over the movement for review. Generally, this watch demonstrates an unmistakable vision for a youthful brand. I completely love the watch, yet I don’t figure I can pull for this one to win.

With such a restricted run, a 2.5 Hz balance, and a not-so-classic-not-so-vanguard dial, I think the gathering for the Dead Beat Second will be strong among the collectors of independents. Despite the fact that dissimilar to the Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain , it doesn’t feel like it will have extremely expansive allure, something necessary to be delegated the best Men’s watch. I could always not be right, however given the broadness of the jury it is difficult for awesome yet peculiar watches to win what I would consider a classic category.

IS: Two gifted youthful watchmakers, Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, group up, set up all alone, seize the chance of working with a widely acclaimed master watchmaker, and inside three years develop their first watch, which is assigned as one of the main six men’s watches of the year. Everything sounds easy when actually anything besides. I’ve almost certainly that there was a sound dose of karma included, however chances of a lifetime will in general spring from immense ability and years of hard work.

However, as inspiring as Petermann Bédat’s birthplace story is, GPHG prizes aren’t awarded for stories however for extraordinary watches, and their Dead Beat Seconds is just that: and it’s an excellent watch in each sense. Wonderful 39 mm size, check; incredible design, check; interesting dial-side visual interest (visible winding mechanism), check; superlatively hand-finished in-house movement, check; interesting specialized details (deadbeat seconds), check.

Petermann Bédat Dead Beat Second

The just miniscule imperfection I saw from the photograph supplied is that the second hand doesn’t line up with the railroad track marker. To me that is essential in a deadbeat seconds; nonetheless, I’ll put that down to being a rushed guideline for the photos and expectation that it has been amended when the GPHG jury sits down to look at the named watches carefully.

ED: Great catch on that, Ian. What’s more, a shocking blunder for a deadbeat seconds watch. I positively trust that the last watch’s guideline is better. I wish we’d got an opportunity to see this one in the metal – I’ll wager it’s stunning.

IS: Petermann Bédat’s Dead Beat Second is my tied victor for Best Men’s watch 2020. Picking two winners is a copout, I know, yet I’ll need to analyze both the De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky and Petermann Bédat Dead Beat Second side by side to split them.

GG: My top watch among this gathering is the Petermann Bédat Dead Beat Second made by two youthful Lange watchmaking school graduated class with the assistance of legend Dominique Renaud and highlighting a noticeably displayed Gafner dead-seconds mechanism on the movement side. The cutaway dial is also particularly to my taste; I’ll confess somewhat of a bias here as I had an experience with Gaël Petermann last year in Geneva during which we discussed a previous design, and to my eye at any rate this one is leagues better and incredible in absolute terms.

ED: Everything about this watch is incredibly however I would prefer: independent watchmakers that met at A. Lange & Söhne, everything being equal; a classic case size; a classic dial with a sufficient twist to intrigue me; and deadbeat seconds. I anticipate watching this youthful brand grow.

Further reading: Petermann Bédat Seconde Morte: Dead Seconds, Independently (Video)

Quick Facts Petermann Bédat Seconde Morte

Case: 39 x 10.7 mm, pink gold

Movement: physically twisted Caliber 171 with swan-neck fine guideline, enormous variable idleness balance wheel, 36-hour power reserve, 18,000 vph/2.5 Hz recurrence

Functions: hours, minutes, deadbeat seconds

Impediment: 10 pieces

Value: CHF 59,800

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium Edition

MG: If it weren’t for the Petermann Bédat watch, this Romain Gauthier would be my victor as I think that its fascinating how Gauthier took what was essentially a significant classic watch and made it into a futuristic sports watch. While I am usually a dress-watch sort of fellow, I love this so much that I may even lean toward it over a gold-encased Insight Micro-Rotor. The watch itself was at that point a victor for me as I am a sucker for a miniature rotor movement, and this Romain Gauthier is an immaculate example.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette in Carbonium

IS: As with any watch coming from Romain Gauthier’s assembling, the Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition is superlative all around. Useful programmed twisting from a gold miniature rotor visible dial side, comfortable on the wrist thanks to the lightweight however strong carbon-fiber case, and the blue hour, moment, and second hands offer truly readable time telling despite the uncommonly all around finished skeletonized movement competing for attention.

And different brands considering entering the GPHG one year from now may use Romain Gauthier’s comprehensive data text as a layout. Dreadfully numerous brands seem to accept a few exhausting photos and a concise section congratulating themselves without giving any substance will do the job.

The just reason that I don’t imagine that this Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette is in the racing to win here is also its principle strength: it looks excessively distinctive, excessively contemporary. The Men’s classification has historically been won by more customary looking watches.

JM: I love Romain Gauthier and have since I first looked at pieces from this store brand. With a combination of classic movement engineering, amazingly fine finishing, and vanguard styling, Romain Gauthier has a special spot in my heart. The Insight Micro-Rotor is an awesome piece, and the Carbonium case is an astonishing use of an interesting material for such an ordinarily conventional inclining aesthetic.

However awesome that Carbonium is, however, I dread that atypical material will put off some of the jury members simply because of a wider saw estimation of carbon-based cases. This piece could surprise me and stun all the jury members, yet based on what has won this classification in the past, it feels like this one is just altogether too wild, and thusly perhaps restricted in wearability, to be delegated the best Men’s watch.

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium Edition

ED: All of the Insight Micro-Rotor models are incredibly wearable, even on my small wrist, making them proportionate and comfortable, which is critical to me. The use of Carbonium makes the case considerably lighter and all the more visually interesting, as well. An excellent specimen!

This variety of Romain Gauthier’s Insight Micro Rotor Squelette is my sprinter up in this class. I’m enamored with its visuals. Yet, similar to my colleagues, I figure the jury will go for something more classic, regardless of how deserving this stunning watch is.

GG: My second-place pick is the Romain Gauthier Carbonium® Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette. The Micro-Rotor has been in the Gauthier line for a couple of years at this point, however this one is an almost complete re-innovation of the reference with its extensive skeletonization and over-the-lead hand finishing. Two or three impressive numbers: 350 hours for every watch of hand finishing and 156 inside angles! Using intense to-work titanium for the movement components and casing everything in carbon fiber makes this piece significantly more remarkable for me.

Further reading: Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Carbonium: Adding Lightness

Romain Gauthier’s Insight Micro-Rotor White Gold Limited Editions And Why You Might Want One

The Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor: Complex Simplicity Begets A Deeper Truth

Quick Facts Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette

Case: 42 x 12.9 mm, Carbonium

Movement: programmed Insight Micro Rotor type with miniature rotor, 28,800 vph/4 Hz recurrence, 80-hour power reserve; highest degree of haute horlogerie finishing

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds

Value: CHF 155,000 barring taxes

Voutilainen 28SC

IS: If you have perused this before I am sorry because I feel as however I compose the same thing consistently: Kari Voutilainen has never made a watch that I don’t just adore yet lust after, and the 28SC is no exemption. On the off chance that anything its unadulterated simplicity of focal hour, moment, and second hands (small seconds have been the standard for Voutilainen up to this point) over the flawlessly guilloche blue dial make the 28SC considerably more slobber worthy.

Voutilainen 28SC

IS: And then there’s the sensationally hand-finished production movement with its creative twofold escape wheel controller. Stay composed, my thumping heart! I’ve lost check how regularly Voutilainen has won prizes in various categories at the GPHG throughout the long term, yet it has been frequently sufficient that the committee should consider setting aside a special classification for him to give different brands all the more a chance.

There are a ton of incredible watches that I appreciate, a not many that I love, and a small modest bunch that I would, in the event that I had the cash, purchase for myself. The Voutilainen 28SC is one of the last mentioned. In any case, all that said, while the 28SC is in my main three watches here, this year my heart belongs to another (two).

GG: How would it be able to be that a Kari Voutilainen piece isn’t at the top? I’d say that, indeed, he can’t win each year, however that wouldn’t be reasonable for the rules of the game expecting us to consider each watch on its individual merits. I’m a major devotee of both the Vingt-8 and focal seconds watches, however adding a major seconds display to the dependable Vingt-8 wasn’t exactly enough for me to boost this one to the first spot on my list against strong competition this year.

ED: You said it all, Gary. The field here is unimaginably strong, and I also feel that jiggering the seconds display just isn’t sufficient to justify one more win for this unbelievable watchmaker – regardless of the amount I love his work and this clean dial.

In certainty, however, there is just a single watchmaker in this field that hasn’t won a prize at the GPHG previously – the newcomer, Petermann Bédat. It will be interesting to see what comes out of this.

Voutilainen 28SC

MG: I am almost somewhat embarrassed to say, however I discover this Voutilainen somewhat exhausting. Strange, because this is ordinarily a word that I could never associate with this brand. While the dial is pleasantly done, I am slightly killed by the blued details on the hands and view the guilloche as excessively modest to truly shine. As far as I might be concerned, this watch would profit by a seriously friendly dial design, which Voutilainen, luckily, makes as the rest of the watch leaves almost no to complain about.

JM: The absolute first thing I need to say about the 28SC is that Voutilainen won this classification last year with the brand’s first inverse movement watch , so while all of Voutilainen’s pieces in fantastic, I will guess first thing that the jury may pass on this model simply to give someone else a possibility. I would place this watch as comparable in versatility and awesomeness to the Laurent Ferrier, especially with its wide appeal.

I realize that this is the first place seconds used on a Vingt-8 type and that may get some votes, yet by and large I’m not sure if Voutilainen will return to move in the Men’s classification if simply so that the jury doesn’t seem biased. Try not to misunderstand me, I love this watch, yet there are a great deal of fantastic pieces that are genuinely comparable this year so Voutilainen may just need to clear a path for someone else to appreciate the spotlight as the best Men’s watch for 2020.

Quick Facts Voutilainen 28SC

Case: 38.5 x 13.3 mm, titanium

Dial: guilloche silver dial with applied gold in-house hour numerals

Movement: manual winding Caliber Vingt-8 with extra-huge equilibrium and double escape wheels, 65-hour power reserve, 2.5 Hz/18,800 vph recurrence

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds

Limit: 10 pieces

Cost: 74,000 Swiss francs

For more data on all these designated watches in the Men’s classification, please visit www.gphg.org/horlogerie/en/gphg-2020/assigned watches#2020_HOMME .

Predicted Winners

Elizabeth: De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky

Ian: tie between De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky and Petermann Bédat Dead Beat Second (tie)

Gary: Petermann Bédat Dead Beat Second

Martin: Petermann Bédat Dead Beat Second

Joshua: Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Green

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