Welcome to the 2019 version of Quill & Pad’s initial Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève predictions in which the group picks top choices and clarifies why.
The specialists are:
Ian Skellern (IS), prime supporter and specialized director
Joshua Munchow (JM), occupant geek writer
Martin Green (MG), occupant gentleman
Sean Li (SL), article overseer of Blackbird Watch Manual
Tim Mosso (TM), watch subject matter expert and media overseer of pre-possessed watch retailer Watchbox
Note: as jury individuals , manager in-boss Elizabeth Doerr and occupant gatherer GaryG don’t participate in these early predictions.
The GPHG establishment depicts the Men’s Complication classification for watches entered as “men’s watches that are exceptional regarding their mechanical inventiveness and complexity. These watches may highlight a wide range of exemplary and additionally imaginative complications and signs (e.g., world time, double time, or different sorts of models and don’t fit the meaning of the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories.”
JM: Today we come to the Men’s Complication class, consistently a strong gathering of watches that, alongside Mechanical Exception, regularly fall directly in my horological sweet spot. This additionally makes it an intense class since the objectives are still generally indistinct beside looking for watches that are “exceptional” for their mechanical innovativeness and complexity. In any case, the sections in this classification are comparable enough that some unmistakable differentiations can be made.
SL: Again, that feared word “complication.” If you apply it carefully, a few of these watches would be more qualified in different classifications. In fact, it’s eventually an essential decision for these brands, in the event that they feel that they have a couple of watches they need to enter yet can just present one watch for each class. I feel that by and large, this year, the watches in this class are representative of an industry that occasionally goes for the moon when all we truly need is significantly more practical, and that maybe the jury might have considered the specific necessities of this classification all the more in a real sense prior to making their selection. There are many watches that appeared to have fallen through the net on this shortlist.
TM: There’s a huge load of repackaged content here. Each and every watch is an emphasis of a previous product!
IS: The 2019 GPHG Men’s Complication class is a troublesome one to pick a victor, yet indeed I’m going for intriguing new complications as opposed to a minor departure from a topic we’ve seen before.
Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie
SL: Ah, the Code 11.59, the assortment that requires a whole exposition to get a client to completely comprehend its complexity. In all seriousness, there is absolutely significantly something else under the surface the eye for any Code 11.59 watch, not to mention the Supersonnerie. It gives me a feeling of history repeating itself, however, given that it was preceded by a Jules Audemars variant quite recently in 2017 . Kindly don’t misunderstand me, I’m in complete reverence of the Supersonnerie taking all things together its structures. I think striking watches when all is said in done are intriguing chronological errors and extraordinary specialized show-stoppers. For the AP, however, it’s needless excess for this specific category.
TM: The AP is an easy endeavor to elevate the sketchy Code 11.59 assortment by relationship with Audemars Piguet’s own 2016 GPHG Mechanical Exception prize victor, the Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie .
Unless we’re talking The Godfather, spin-offs don’t win grants. All things considered, the tact and covertness factor of this watch merit notice in a classification of reckless outgoing individuals. AP’s smoked finish slope dial truly is delightful, and this specific “Code” variation recommends what the assortment may become with time and refinement.
IS: regarding complications, it doesn’t beat a minute repeater, and few repeaters sound better compared to the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie. Yet, while AP’s incredibly resonant development is new to the Code 11.59 assortment, it would ordinarily be not “new enough” to be my pick here. In any case, it’s an exciting minute repeater in another assortment and that is not to be scoffed at. I’d prefer to pick the Code 11.59 Supersonnerie as tied for my champ for this class, however feel that is somewhat of a cop out so it becomes my decision for sprinter up.
JM: The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 is extreme for me to commend as getting an opportunity to see these new watches at the 2019 SIHH resembled pulling teeth, and I never saw any renditions other than the time only.
So while I am certain that the Minute Repeater Supersonnerie sounds inconceivable and the development is lovely, I wouldn’t by and by know. The styling is disruptive, best case scenario, and the dispatch left some with awful preferences for their mouths for the brand, so I don’t figure this watch will make the objective of victor in this classification. However, I additionally wouldn’t be amazed in the event that it did since it actually is, by the day’s end, a super watch from Audemars Piguet.
MG: Old wine in new containers: that is the Code 11.59 Supersonnerie to me. In fact an overwhelming watch, just sadly placed in some unacceptable case. Indeed, even in the wake of letting this new model hit home subsequent to being acquainted recently with not exactly heavenly surveys it still doesn’t hit the nail on the head for me.
It would be so extraordinary if this development were presented in that exemplary Jules Audemars case. Hold on, it was. What’s more, it was a finalist in the Mechanical Exception class of the 2017 version of the GPHG .
Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet: How To Fail At Marketing, AKA To Break The Rules You Must First Master Them
Hearing Is Believing: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie And The Science Of Sound
For more data, if it’s not too much trouble, visit gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/code-1159-audemars-piguet-minute-repeater-supersonnerie .
Quick Facts Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie
Case: 41 x 13.5 mm, white gold
Development: manual winding type, 3 Hz/21,600 vph recurrence, 72-hour power hold
Capacities: hours, minutes, seconds; minute repeater
Cost: 317,800 Swiss francs
Czapek Genève Place Vendôme Ombres
SL: I’m as yet going back and forth in regards to this specific brand: I think the watches are cool, however I’m contemplating whether I wouldn’t have preferred that they pick an alternate name as opposed to one that was tidied off from the set of experiences books.
Be that as it might, this watch absolutely possesses all the necessary qualities as a men’s complication and has the eccentricity of having a titanium case, which is surprising with a tourbillon. Given that titanium is one of my #1 case materials, and the watch’s general stylish addresses me, I’ll give it a thumbs up.
TM: Czapek impresses with a movement amicable tourbillon double time. Regardless of whether staying in contact with companions and relations or keeping up to date with colleagues, travel time capacities are ideal for practically all watch enthusiasts.
And given that the development of the Place Vendôme has been designed and worked by Chronode, this probably is the most solid and wearable tourbillon you’ll discover from an eight-year-old free brand. All that said, we saw a similar essential watch in 2017 and there’s no important curiosity here.
JM: For my third-place pick it was not difficult to go with Czapek in light of the fact that everything this generally new brand does is fascinating and gives a touch of point of view move. The Place Vendôme Ombres is unquestionably not a traditional watch and that is the reason it sticks out so much.
The objective of mechanical imagination is obviously in play with the usage of the subsequent time region dial, day/night pointer, and the design in all cases. All things considered, it actually plays it altogether too protected to take the best position so I need to go with an alternate piece.
IS: While I extol Czapek for the brand’s most complicated watch to date – the Genève Place Vendôme Ombres highlighting hours, minutes, seconds, power save marker, second time region, tourbillon, and day/night pointer – there’s a couple more watches here that I believe are competitively stronger.
For all the more if it’s not too much trouble, visit gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/place-vendome-ombres .
Quick Facts Czapek Genève Place Vendôme Ombres
Case: 43.5 x 13.6 mm, titanium
Development: manual winding Caliber SXH2 (made by Chronode) with one-minute tourbillon, 60-hour power hold, 3 Hz/21,600 vph recurrence
Capacities: hours, minutes, seconds; second time region, power save sign, day/night sign
Constraint: 25 pieces
Retail value: CHF 88,000
SL: See my comments above on class decisions; this watch has “chronometry” composed on top of it. That is to say, the portrayal gave on the site is in excess of 1,800 words! I’d truly prefer to rate it higher, and I likely would on the off chance that it were entered in one of different classifications, yet as a “Men’s Complication” it’s likewise excessive.
IS: Despite its attractive features, flying tourbillon, three-degree slanted stuff train, power save, in-house escapement, and recessed crown, I believe that there a few different watches in this class somewhat more grounded than the DC6-Solstice. It’s extreme at the top!
JM: The DC6-Solstice is in no way, shape or form an unpretentious watch, and it really is great when tasteful dangers are taken. However, even given the special crown placement, work, and the general appearance, the DC6-Solstice will have however many fans as doubters. Also, since the watch has no auxiliary signs other than a force save pointer, it feels as though the reason for the watch wasn’t upheld by this category.
That isn’t to say I don’t think it merits frantic acknowledgment for what it is, however like others here it very well may be more qualified to an alternate category.
TM: David Candaux is a name to know for what’s to come. I’ve been a devotee of his since his JLC days, and I’ve followed his autonomous work from Fonderie 47 to Badollet to MB&F to his present farmhouse produce. I’ve met him, and he’s a cool dude.
His work merits acknowledgment, and you ought to likely consider a buy in the event that you have an affinity for disparaging exceptional experts. All things considered, I thought he had a superior shot at the success with his 2018 selection for the Chronometry prize, and I can’t perceive how minor stylish refinements could place him super in Men’s Complication for 2019.
For all the more if it’s not too much trouble, visit gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/dc6-solstice .
Quick Facts D. Candaux DC6-Solstice
Case: 43 x 12.5 mm, titanium
Development: physically winding Caliber 1740 with biaxial one-minute flying tourbillon, 55-hour power hold, 3 Hz/21,600 vph recurrence, offset with 30-degree tendency, slanted type development
Capacities: hours, minutes, seconds; power save show
Limit: 8 pieces
Cost: 273,000 Swiss francs
Ulysse Nardin Freak X
IS: This adaptation of the Freak is really the brand’s most un-complicated (and generally moderate) minor departure from the pivotal watch. Completely new for 2019, the Freak X highlights a flying carrousel development pivoting around its own hub to show the time and a super-light silicon escapement with balancing out miniature sharp edges. While it probably won’t be the most complicated watch in this gathering, the Freak X drives specialized and tasteful limits farther than the competition here, and I feel it well merits this prize.
If the jury esteems imagination over complexity, at that point then the Freak X has a decent opportunity to come out on top. It’s my pick for best Men’s Complication 2019.
MG: Ulysse Nardin did something extraordinary for itself with the new Freak X, which presently has a more customary look, a case with a wearable width of 43 mm, and even a crown.
Has this watch gone delicate on us? No, Ulysse Nardin basically took the best from its astounding Freak inheritance and transformed it into a watch that even less capricious individuals can wear day by day – even to work, and regardless of whether the wearer is a bookkeeper. Maybe particularly a bookkeeper on the grounds that Ulysse Nardin likewise made the value more tolerable for a bigger gathering of individuals. I didn’t consider that last thing when making my considerations (as cost isn’t to be considered when deciding at the GPHG), yet the Freak X actually proved to be the best for me.
SL: Another problem for the Freak X: at its center, I would likewise believe the first Freak to be bungled for this classification. Be that as it may, Ulysse Nardin has worked really hard of making the Freak X a reasonable piece of the Freak heredity, however considerably more open. There is, once more, not a complication essentially, in spite of the fact that you could contend that the watch is “imaginative and complex” according to the class definition. I’ll give it a possibility, despite the fact that I imagine that the jury will discover different watches more dazzling.
TM: Ulysse Nardin’s new Freak X is a well disposed and edible interpretation of the company’s outré symbol. Also, indeed, the change has burglarized the first of certain mark highlights including restrictiveness, a level of independence, bezel-based setting, and above all, weirdness.
I presume that projecting a more extensive net is a savvy commercial move, yet with all due respect UN just expanded the allure of a significant and truly imaginative model family. More individuals will be making the rounds wearing fascinating watches because of a more open Freak, and that is commendable. In particular another development, case, and model make the Freak X the solitary genuinely new watch among the pre-selections for this honor. This is the watch that I hope to score the Men’s Complication grant in November.
JM: This watch is the meaning of mechanical innovativeness and complexity similar to all of its “freaky” predecessors. The Freak X additionally has the special reward of being the more moderate infant sibling, which encourages it gather energy from more authorities. What’s more, that will be normal: a marginally pared-down yet still fantastic variant of the Freak accessible beginning for simply a hair more than $20,000 is difficult to resist the urge to panic about. However, since this is the complication class, and it is in fact is a period just watch, this also feels like it can’t take the best position despite the fact that it is absurdly awesome.
Further perusing: Ulysse Nardin Freak X: The ‘Reasonable’ Freak
For all the more if it’s not too much trouble, visit gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/crack x .
Quick Facts Ulysse Nardin Freak X
Case: 43 x 13.5 mm, titanium
Development: programmed Caliber UN-230, silicon offset wheel with nickel flyweights, flying carrousel development, 3 Hz/21,600 vph recurrence, 72-hour power save, silicon escapement
Capacities: hours, minutes
Constraint: 18 pieces
Cost: $21,000/21,000 Swiss francs
Comment: 5-year warranty
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon
JM: What would i be able to say about a flawless watch with an extraordinary development that just feels disappointing as a contestant in the complication class? In normal Vacheron style, the Overseas Tourbillon is best in class and has a stunning development with fringe rotor, however given the competition this year the Overseas Tourbillon sadly falls a piece short.
IS: As I’m going for fascinating new complications as opposed to a minor departure from a subject we’ve seen previously, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon will not take my best position. However decent as it seems to be, a tourbillon and fringe winding rotor simply isn’t complicated enough in this category.
TM: Vacheron Constantin offers an extraordinariness here: this is a reasonable tourbillon. In hardened steel, it is programmed, swimmable, and abundantly lumed. The entirety of the fundamental favorable circumstances of the third-age Overseas, including attractive type finish and brisk delivery drags, are present here. Holding the case thickness to 10.39 mm merits acclamations. Yet, adding a tourbillon to a generally huge games watch feels so 2008.
SL: in light of a legitimate concern for decency – and it torments me to do so in light of the fact that I like the Overseas assortment and I praise the way that there is a tourbillon in a steel case, which conflicts with the conventional grain for a particularly old style brand, and I truly like blue dials – yet once more, the tourbillon isn’t a complication in itself.
It’s unquestionably top notch with a fringe rotor that guarantees that the tourbillon confine is rarely covered up one or the other front or back. Like the Freak X, the jury may neglect it as it’s excessively solidly in the Goldilocks zone and probably won’t be “wonderful” enough in the current company.
Further perusing: A History Of Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Line, Culminating In 2016’s Worldtimer
For more data, data, kindly visit gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/abroad tourbillon .
Quick Facts Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon
Case: 42.5 x 10.39 mm, treated steel
Development: programmed Caliber 2160 with fringe rotor and one-minute tourbillon, 80-hour power hold, 2.5 Hz/18,000 vph recurrence, Geneva Seal
Capacities: hours, minutes, seconds
Cost: 116,000 Swiss francs
Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon
SL: Hey, another tourbillon! In any case, truly, it’s an extremely cool and smart one, far in excess of the way that it has a twofold tourbillon, any development that can time 1/100th of a second dependably is a huge achievement.
The skeletonization gives it a fascinating and proper stylish also. In addition, there’s some blue in it, and a chronograph is unquestionably a commendable complication. So it’s not hard to figure that this would be my own pick in this category.
JM: In my best position I need to put the one piece that not just takes the cake on the complexity and mechanical inventiveness front, yet in addition gives a somewhat uncommon complication: the 100th of-a-second chronograph. An advancement from the first development found at sister brand TAG Heuer, the Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon is a work of dominance and precision measurement.
Not to make reference to that twofold tourbillons turning at various rates is an underhanded visual when the quick equilibrium is compared to the conventional equilibrium speeds. The styling may be somewhat untidy or outwardly difficult to follow, however the second anybody sees that tourbillon dashing around estimating passed time it will be difficult to turn away. I think the Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon has a strong shot at the best position given that it truly accomplishes something almost no other watch can do, and that is crucial.
MG: Seeing Zenith’s Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon in real life is as yet one of my features of Baselworld 2019: a tourbillon running at 360,000 vph is simply unbelievable! Not certain the amount it really adds to making the chronograph run all the more precisely, however the cool factor of simply doing it is adequate for me in this watch.
TM: Zenith’s cross-fertilization with TAG Heuer and Hublot is, regardless, a reality existing apart from everything else and the predictable future.
“Open” dials, grandiose shading plans, immense cases, and legacy from LVMH research division head Guy Sémon’s late, extraordinary TAG Heuer high-mech projects have become routine in Le Locle. Add a 46 mm case, and unmistakably no specific scaling down or bundling wizardry has been accomplished while uniting these components together.
With such an extensive amount the Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon’s appearance and designing set up on different models under different names, the watch doesn’t feel adequately creative to me to take this title.
IS: The Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon with its two committed barrels – one each controlling the time and the chronograph instrument – is absolutely complicated, yet it simply isn’t sufficient for me in this setup to take the checkered flag.
Further perusing: Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon: Partnering For Perfection (Plus Video)
For more data, if it’s not too much trouble, visit gphg.org/horlogerie/en/watches/resist el-primero-twofold tourbillon .
Quick Facts Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon
Case: 46 x 14.5 mm, platinum
Development: programmed Caliber El Primero 9020 with two free tourbillons, one rotating at 5 Hz and one at 50 Hz, 5 Hz/36,000 vph and 50 Hz/360,000 vph frequencies, 50-hour and 50-minute force saves, formally confirmed as a chronometer by Timelab
Capacities: hours, minutes; chronograph showing seconds and minutes to 1/100th of a second; chronograph power hold
Limit: 10 pieces dressed in platinum
Cost: $141,000/149,900 Swiss francs
Joshua: Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon
Sean: Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon
Tim: Ulysse Nardin Freak X
Ian: Ulysse Nardin Freak X
Martin: Ulysse Nardin Freak X
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Complete List And Photos Of All Shortlisted Watches In The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
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Our Predictions In The Ladies Complication Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panel Is Unanimous!
Zenith Defy El Primero Double Tourbillon: Partnering For Perfection (Plus Video)
Ulysse Nardin Freak X: The ‘Moderate’ Freak