As these things go, Parmigiani Fleurier and I return a lovely long way. I purchased the first of a few watches I’ve bought from the brand (a Kalpa in steel) around 2005, MrsG actually wears every one of her two Kalpa Piccolas with some regularity.
So, it was with critical interest that I accepted up the open door to deal with, photo, and assess Parmigiani’s most recent presentation, the Tondagraph GT. It’s a generally uncommon combination of two valuable complications in what the brand calls “all-event” bundling, and it is offered at a very sensible value comparative with different bits of its kind.
Spoiler alert: I like it
As standard perusers know, my job here at Quill & Pad focuses for the most part on pieces in my own and companions’ assortments, with intermittent insights on industry advancements – and less regularly on assessing new presentations that I haven’t already considered.
When I do look at another watch, there’s consistently that second when I first open the case and expectation that I haven’t joined to create a few pages of composition on why the watch being referred to is a flop. Joyfully, this piece quickly struck me as unequivocally made, appealing, and, with its combination of yearly schedule and chronograph, horologically interesting.
I’ll begin in what may appear to be an odd spot, an element that for me truly characterizes the allure of the Tondagraph GT: the arm band. Likewise for certain different plans we’ve seen as of late (the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus conspicuous among them), the GT uses what I’ll call a semi-coordinated plan, with an arm band that flares out to coordinate the external profiles of the carries working on this issue and afterward indents in to fit between them.
On the Parmigiani, there’s nothing jolting about this plan. In addition to other things, in the event that you take a gander at the photograph above you’ll see that there is a generally whole bend from the external edge of one drag right across the joining line where the wristband meets the case and out to the edge of the far carry, limiting the visual impression of haul versus bracelet.
Seen from the side, the look is similarly natural with refreshed at this point brand-trademark tear drags including correspondingly profiled pushers tightening into the main connection of the bracelet.
And similarly as with different Parmigiani wristbands I’ve worn (for my perspectives on arm bands from Parmigiani and others, see Heavy Metal: Great (And Not So Great) Watch Bracelets ), this one streams around the wrist with no unattractive holes or sharp edges to divert from the visual impression.
Around the back, the arm band looks basic and clean with a covered up, two-sided catch that sits comfortably under the wrist and assists with balancing out the heaviness of what is, particularly for a steel piece, a prominently weighty watch. Two half-joins assist with exact sizing.
There is a watch required, as well
Of course, a decent arm band without a decent watch is only a wristband – and this is a genuinely alluring watch, too.
For me, the dial side is occupied enough with its machined three-sided guilloche, round furrows, external section ring, and applied files to keep me intrigued. Furthermore, I like the utilization of blazes of orange featuring the date and month of the yearly schedule and recognizing those signs from those of the chronograph.
Some people I’ve conversed with discover the measure of content on the dial to be exorbitant, however to my eye it’s not out of the worthy reach and really assists with giving somewhat of a casual look to the watch.
A more critical gander at the detail shot above recommends that Parmigiani has found a way to work on the dial-side look. Note the shortfall of printed records at 10, 20, and 30 on the chronograph minutes’ subdial and the utilization of two half-roundabout bends to follow the running seconds on the right-hand subdial while opening up space for the month pointer below.
The dark iridescent covering on the applied markers and hands additionally decreases the messiness factor comparative with white or hued lume choices while giving a reasonable sparkle once dimness falls.
Working with Italian fashioner Dino Modolo, Parmigiani has both held components of its customary plan codes and refreshed them to great impact. The kneaded profiles of the hauls and pushers are one model; another is consolidating Parmigiani’s trademark “Toric” fluting on the bezel.
On the actual dial, the brand logo and its text style continue as before as in the past, yet the oval encompass we’ve come to connect with Parmigiani has been taken out to give a cleaner look (albeit the ovals around the “PF” initials stay on the crown and movement).
In the motor room
Behind the scenes, the Vaucher-created Caliber PF043 keeps things ticking while additionally giving chronograph and yearly schedule functions.
The yearly schedule chronograph is a lovely uncommon combination in the realm of horology, however I believe it’s the perfect decision for the Tondagraph GT as it keeps the watch out of the rarified quality of the ceaseless schedule positions. As far as I might be concerned, the regular convenience of the yearly schedule complication is a decent counterpart for the watch’s chronograph.
I think the visual look of the PF043 development is steady with the remainder of the watch: the soleil-style striping and thick rotor help are adequately energetic; and I’m especially happy that Parmigiani went with a more confident rotor plan than its more botanical conventional look.
That said, the completing, while completely sufficient, fails to measure up to that on large numbers of Parmigiani’s different contributions. The difference with the different inside points, unpretentious stripes, and almost undetectable sub-plate of the Caliber PF111 development of the brand’s Pantographe Ovale that I looked into in 2017 is obviously clear from the picture underneath, proposing a portion of the tradeoffs that were needed to keep the Tondagraph generally affordable.
The wide back bezel of the watch uncovers that the base development is tiny in breadth comparative with the 42 mm case. Joyfully, the dial format spreads the subdials and different signs generally enough, and the part ring, external furrows, and huge applied lists fill the edge of the dial adequately to keep away from the cross-peered toward look that is an annoyance of mine with numerous other watches.
The schedule signs function admirably, as well, with the date and month clicking throughout similarly as the time approaches midnight.
There is nothing of the sort as the ideal watch! There several little contacts that were not exactly adequate in the watch I took care of, including a shading confound between the orange print on the dial and the tone of the day and date indicators.
But those are the sorts of things that are frequently an unavoidable truth with pre-creation models, and I expect they will be resolved in the conveyed watches. Also, the counter intelligent sapphire gem was acceptable, yet not up to the staggering norms of some different watches of my acquaintance.
The chronograph was to some degree less as I would prefer. The chronograph minutes sign is persistent, not the quick or semi-momentary sort that I like. Furthermore, the chronograph pushers require very lively initiation. I’m maybe more receptive to pusher feel than some others, however I wish that the Tondagraph’s chrono incitation and reset sensations were more reformist and less resistant.
As noted above, making a strong and complicated watch like the Tondagraph GT at a retail cost under $20,000 requires a few tradeoffs. Of course, it should had the completing of a Voutilainen or the rich pusher feel of A. Lange & Söhne Datograph , yet as an all-event wearer in a similar complication class as the Patek Philippe 5960/1A (at present exchanging in the mid-$40,000 territory, used), I figure it does an extraordinary job.
Is it appropriate for you?
We can like them all, yet we can’t get them all. The Tondagraph GT may be a piece you need to have in your assortment if . . .
- Its vigor, lucid style, and by and large quality address you.
- You either favor more modest free brands in your assortment or consider a to be from Parmigiani as a decent change for you into pieces from more modest manufactures.
- You are on the lookout at a watch at this cost point and discover the combination of valuable complications, Parmigiani reproducing, and restricted creation of 200 pieces intense to coordinate in different pieces you are considering.
- You figure out how to get one on your wrist and fall head over heels in love for its weight and that sleek bracelet.
- You are sure enough in your own preferences to purchase something that not every other person is wearing.
On the other hand, this may not be the correct watch for you at the present time if . . .
- You don’t esteem the utility and effortlessness of a yearly schedule – or simply don’t care for date windows in general.
- You utilize the chronograph on your watch a ton and are a fanatic for satiny pusher feel.
- The 42 mm size, unmistakable guilloche, and dial-side tones and contents feel all in all too emphatic for your style or excessively huge for your wrist.
I’ll anticipate perusing your impacts on this piece in comments segment on how you imagine that it compares with options. Meanwhile, glad chasing and if it’s not too much trouble, stay well!
For more data, kindly visit www.parmigiani.com/en/watch/tonda/tondagraph-gt-acier .
Quick Facts Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT
Case: 42 x 13.7 mm, tempered steel; 100 m water obstruction
Dial and hands: dark dial with machined guilloche and fringe roundabout depressions; rhodium-plated applied lists with dark brilliant covering; delta-formed hands with radiant covering
Development: programmed Caliber PF043; 28,800 vph/4Hz recurrence; power hold 45 hours
Capacities: hours, minutes, little seconds; huge date, 30-minute chronograph, yearly schedule
Constraint: 200 pieces
Cost: $19,500/CHF 19,500 with fitted steel arm band; $18,500/CHF 18,500 with dark elastic lash and collapsing clasp
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