The first reissue of the Seagull 1963 was and still is a major achievement. Extraordinary looks, a fascinating history and a value nobody could laugh at guaranteed this. We took an inside and out gander at the first 38mm form a few months prior and were enchanted by it’s interesting vintage character. The gold-tone dial, gold applied markers and blued-steel hands gave it an exceptional character that while originating from military plan had a tastefulness that made it adaptable and out and out classy. What’s more, obviously, the ST19 manual segment wheel chronograph development inside gave it a mechanical ability that wrapped everything up. Since we previously covered it once, I don’t plan on rewriting the account of the 1963 here, so investigate the principal article to get some background.
To follow up the accomplishment of the first, Seagull has delivered another arrangement of bigger, 42mm renditions. Furthermore, they added 2 new shading varieties to add one more layer of choices. While the bigger size was likely a reaction to the overall pattern for watches, particularly chronographs and game watches, to be in the 40 – 44mm, the new tones are unforeseen and very intriguing. The 42mm is as yet accessible in the first gold tone, yet now there is a dark with silver and a white with dark alternative. The other new component is a more exorbitant cost tag. The first 38mm with a sapphire gem is as yet accessible for $389, however the new 42mm with acrylic gem is $469.
Since we examined the 38mm with gold dial before on w&w, we figured it would be more fascinating to investigate one of the new tones. In this way, we went with the white with dark rendition. Dials of this style are commonly alluded to as “panda” dials, do to their undeniable likeness to the essence of a panda bear. Adorable affiliations aside, it’s a style that isn’t common on contemporary watches and turns out to be extraordinary looking. On account of the 1963, it adds an alternate “vintage” component that may make the watch much more interesting to some.
Case: Steel Movement: Seagull ST19 Dial: White Lume: indeed, on hands Lens: Acrylic Strap: Leather Water Res.: NA Dimensions: 42 x 48mm Thickness: 13 mm Lug Width: 22 mm Crown: 6 x 4 mm screw down Warranty: NA Price: $469
The treated steel instance of the new 1963 measures, as the name recommends, 42 x 48 x 13mm. The generally short carry to-haul distance, which makes it decent for more modest wrist also, tempers the bigger width. It’s a basic case with insignificant completing, yet some intriguing calculation. From above, there is minimal that sticks out. The focal case is roundabout with enormous and genuinely thick drags projecting. Things get fascinating when you take a gander at the watch from the side or down the drags. The entire case tightens upwards towards the domed acrylic gem, but instead than being level or round, the sides really are sunken. Basically, in the event that you laid the watch precious stone down, it would resemble a cross area from a bell.
The chrono pushers situated at 2 and 4 are comparably extremely plain, simply being little steel chambers. The crown at 3 is tolerably huge estimating 6 x 4mm as one would expect since this is a hand wound development. Lamentably, the crown is unsigned, giving it an exceptionally conventional look. The 38mm rendition had a Seagull logo carved in, so I was shocked by the absence of marking here.
The watch includes a showcase case ease that shows off the mind boggling and delightful ST19 development inside. Around the edge of the case back are different Chinese characters, a few stars and numbers. Despite the fact that all that anyone could need to take a gander at all alone, the first 38mm adaptation had a cool red screen-printed realistic on the glass. In spite of the fact that this marginally clouded the development, it was interesting and a component I miss on the 42mm version.
The dial of the 1963 42mm has the entirety of similar components as the first, yet has been scaled to fit the bigger size. It’s an appealing and intentional plan, with intriguing components, which doesn’t lose anything by being scaled. The panda assortment includes a matte white foundation with a silver applied hour file. Around the external edge of the dial is a finely printed dark moment and chronograph seconds list with accuracy to 1/fifth of a second.
The applied markers of the 1963 watches have consistently been on of my #1 plan components of the watch. Adding a to some degree more enlivening and dressy component, the markers raise the plan past that of essentially a military watch. They additionally have a particularly 60’s feeling, being a blend of triangles and numbers, which gives the watch a vintage stylish as well.
Just under 12 is a red star with an applied silver line, and just beneath that it peruses “21 Zuan”. This shows that the ST19 development inside has 21 gems. There are 19 and 21 gem assortments of this development, however I don’t know where or why there are extra gems. Simply over 6 are four Chinese characters, likely showing the area of the industrial facility in which the watch is made as it did on the first 38mm version.
At 3 and 9 are the 30-minute aggregator and dynamic seconds, separately. Both are huge dark circles with white files. As a high difference component, and a characterizing highlight of a panda dial, these sub-dials truly champion and are the principal thing you see when taking a gander at the watch. Since the dial of this watch got bigger, at this point the situating of the sub-dials remains equivalent to that is because of the development, there is a feeling of the sub-dials being excessively near the middle. While this probably won’t be seen by all and doesn’t influence the general tasteful quality, I couldn’t help however see it and feel that things were a touch out of balance.
Nevertheless, the panda dial is an alluring style that works with this watch plan, particularly since it is a bi-compax chronograph. Despite the fact that maybe less legitimate than the gold tone assortment, it actually comes across as vintage motivated and is maybe somewhat sportier than unique tone. Acclaimed Panda dial watches, similar to the Paul Newman Rolex Daytona, have close connections to auto dashing, so I can’t help yet partner that with this dial design.
The hands of the Panda dial 1963 42mm are not quite the same as that of the gold dial. The principle hour and moment are silver square shapes with little fragments of lume, instead of the blue steel stick hands of the first. The chronograph seconds is a red stick, which rapidly recognizes it from the remainder of the hands and takes it leap out of the dial. Both sub-dials highlight little silver stick hands, what while not improper to the plan, are at times difficult to see. The silver can vanish into the dark, which causes me to feel that white would have been a superior decision for legibility.
Movement: Seagull ST19
The Seagull ST19 21-gem section wheel chronograph at the core of the 1963 is a major piece of what makes this watch intriguing. As much a piece of the historical backdrop of the watch as the dial plan, the ST19 depends on the Swiss Venus 175 development which was auctions off to the Chinese. This cutting edge rendition has numerous comparable attributes to it, perhaps the most huge being the segment wheel, which is more enthusiastically to create and subsequently more surprising than cam-style chronographs.
Aside from the set of experiences and the system, what makes this development so extraordinary is that it’s actually the lone modest mechanical chronograph choice out there and it turns out to be incredible looking. Flip the 1963 over and you are given a maze of blued screws, gold-tone gears and a couple of embellished spans. It’s alluring and hypnotizing, particularly when one plays with the chronograph catches while seeing the development. While it’s a long ways from the designed and hand completed chronographs of haute pieces, it’s significantly more than one expects on a sub $500 watch, enhancing the piece.
The development itself is non-hacking, manual breeze with no date work and a recurrence of 21,600 BPH. During my experience with this watch, there was no observable mistake. That being said, the actual chronograph has a couple of issues. To start with, is an issue of sensation. At the point when you start the chrono, it has a genuinely fulfilling click. At the point when you stop it, it actually clicks however with less snap. In any case, when you reset it, there is no sensation by any means. In spite of the fact that this probably won’t trouble a few, I do like a material reaction in my chronographs. The other more huge issue is that when the chronograph is stopped, the seconds hand hops back anyplace from half to an entire second. Plainly, this restricts its potential as an exact planning instrument, however I by one way or another uncertainty it’s going to at any point be utilized as such.
Straps and Wearability
The 1963 42mm comes on a 22mm chocolate earthy colored calfskin tie with earthy colored sewing. The quality is nice and it is adequately comfortable, however it is a genuinely exhausting lash that doesn’t truly accentuate or compliment the watch. A dark tie with white sewing would have been a more sensible decision given the dial. One thing I loved about it however was the clasp. In spite of the fact that it isn’t marked, or have an especially fascinating shape, it has a pleasant strength to it and thickness.
Since the cowhide didn’t very do it for me, I gave the watch a shot a nylon NATO, which certainly made it more fun. The energy of the panda dial is stressed by the NATO configuration, just like the military connotations. The 38mm form just comes with a green NATO, which basically bodes well than a conventional earthy colored cowhide strap.
That being said, on the wrist the lash isn’t the place where your eyes will be. The dial truly is eye catching and exceptionally alluring. Since the watch has a tiny bezel, the dial has a huge load of quality. What’s more, there truly is a striking thing about panda dials. It’s difficult to clarify as there isn’t anything extraordinary sounding about a white dial with dark sub-dials, yet in person it simply works. The blend of white and dark additionally makes for a flexible watch, particularly given the vintage and enriching components. The 42mm size is additionally very comfortable for a medium to huge watch. On my 7-inch wrist, I didn’t feel that the watch was too large. This is to a great extent do to the 48mm drag to-carry size, just as the genuinely dainty 13mm height.
The Seagull 1963 42mm is doubtlessly an extremely appealing watch regardless of the size or shading choice one picks. While over the long haul I think the first gold tone dial is more remarkable, the panda dial form is an energizing other option. There aren’t numerous new panda dial keeps an eye out there, and given the development, value, and so forth of the 1963, this is an extraordinary choice for the individuals who like that look. It is incredible to see them make the 38mm rendition with a panda dial as well.
Aside from the dial, there are a couple of things that I discovered lacking. The shortfall of a marked crown, no craftsmanship on the presentation back gem, the exhausting strap…these things all add up to the watch feeling somewhat nonexclusive. The dial shakes as does the ST19 development, however the supporting cast fails to impress anyone. While $469 isn’t a lot to pay for a mechanical chronograph, it is nearly $100 more than the 38mm rendition, which additionally includes a sapphire gem (however I think acrylic is more proper for this watch). I surmise the inquiry that is left is whether an extra 4mm and more dial choices merits the extra cost.
So, that all being said, I do consider this to be as being interesting to the individuals who preferred the first Seagull 1963, however needed a bigger watch and the individuals who like panda dials. Eventually, I am certain that in the two cases you will discover the watch fulfilling and truly agreeable to wear.
By Zach Weiss Review unit provided via Seagull1963.com